Master France/ Paris Travel Thread

[bijouparvin]

DH and I are taking any and all suggestions/recommendations about what to see/where to eat in Paris. We'll be there for 6 days and we're staying in the Latin Quarter, right near the Luxembourg Garden. We've also got one day in Bruges, Belgium.

Toss me your thoughts!!

[bijouparvin]

Bump! Urgent!

[bijouparvin]

Bump...?

[seattleguamgirl]

We went to Paris last October and stayed in the same area. There are a ton of great cafes near the Luxembourg gardens...You know, we ate at a few spots in St. Germaine but I don't remember any restaurant names. Sorry!

Try asking the concierge at your hotel, or even ask for reccs when you go about town.

[Jazz]

I don't think you can go too wrong in France! We were just there in May.

We had a great dinner at Bistro du Breteuil, which is in the Place de Breteuil "behind" the Eiffel tower (easy to spot once you're in the Place). Really good, and we didn't hear any English spoken! I think it was 30E fixed price, and I think it included a bottle of wine and coffee (along with starter, entree, and dessert). That was our last Paris dinner, and every bite of both our meals was fabulous.

The other two nights we were in Paris were good too. One was at a Belgian chain (DH wanted mussels, and the concierge pointed us there). Felt chain-y inside, but food was great.

The first night was also great, though I have no idea any more what the name was. We wandered down the middle (there's only three that run in the direction of the Seine) street on Ile Ste. Louis (next to Ile de la Cite, where Notre Dame is). Threre are a ton of restaurants there, and most seemed reasonably priced. The one we ended up at had a 19E fixed price dinner, and was delicious (we picked it because it was the only one upon at 6 -- most open at 7 -- and we were starving).

If you want more specific suggestions, check the boards at fodors.com. That's where I got the rec for Bistro du Breteuil & to check out Ile Ste. Louis.

Have a fabulous time!!! And have an escargot or two for me. :)

[TracieB]

Lucky girl!! Have a great time!

[bijouparvin]

Yes, this is our first time in Paris (first time in Europe at all!!) so we are definitely going to want to take in the major sites. We've got two one-day museum passes and metro passes for the whole time we're there. We've already booked an excursion that includes dinner at the Eiffel Tower, a cruise on the Seine, and a show at Moulin Rouge (very touristy, I know, but we figured it would be worth it for such a fun night).

Aside from that, we don't know where to eat, shop, which specific exhibits to see (we're definitely going to hit Musee Rodin, Musee Cluny, Musee d'Orsay, and the Louvre but probably for just a few hours each).

Thanks so much for the input. We leave in three hours so if anyone else has last-minute tips, bring them on!!

[Tandis]

I spent about five hours in the Louvre and pretty much covered all of it, but then I was walking quickly (since I knew I wouldn't be back) and didn't stop to admire anything.

You should pick up a map in Louvre, and it will have the "big" stuff to see - Mona Lisa, etc. I'm sure the other museums will be the same, so then you can pick out the stuff you absolutely need to see and skip the rest.

I would highly suggest you get yourself a good travel guide. I think Fodor's includes a "What to see" page if you have a limited amount of time.

Have fun!

[bijouparvin]

Thanks, Tandis! We've got the Rick Steves guide to Paris and phrasebook. We'll be sure to pick up maps at the museums. I've heard that the Louvre is a lot like the Met here in NYC - you can't hope to cover even a fraction of it so it's better to just pick a section and hit that. We'll see...

[Noa]

Hi!! I am leaving for Paris tomorrow and can.not.wait!!! I am so excited :D
I don't really have any recommendations since its been over 5 years since I last visited Paris, but my BF and I plan to just take it easy. Lots of strolling hand in hand, LOTS of sitting in cafes drinking lattes and people watching, impromptu picnics (cheeses and baugette! mmmm!), window shopping and walking all over the city by foot.

We are also staying in the Latin Quarter.......... Maybe we will cross each other in the street ;)

HAVE FUN!!!

Noa

[Rosebud]

I will be honeymooning in Paris in two months! I've been there several times before but fall in love with the city again every time I go back. It's so gorgeous! :)

These tips are probably too late to help, but I'll post them here for future reference:

General Tips
You don’t need to speak French to have a good time in Paris. You should learn a couple of key phrases (things like please, thank you, where is…, how much is…) and you’ll be fine. Everyone speaks English and they’re happy to do so. They just appreciate it if you TRY to speak a little French. Just be respectful. I can’t speak a word of French and have never had a problem. If you go to Paris in the Spring, there’s likely to be a lot of rain, so bring an umbrella and a coat. In general, the Parisians dress quite nicely. You’ll fit in better if you do, too. Wear pants or skirts, not shorts. Get good walking shoes (but not those big, white, American basketball shoes)—you’ll be walking everywhere! For planning your trip, I recommend looking for hotel, restaurant and activity tips at www.fodors.com and www.frommers.com. The message boards at fodors.com are particularly helpful. Also, check out the many trip reviews & photos from Paris that are posted on this site (The Honeymoon Bio):

http://www.theknot.com/co_profileview.htm?profilename=TheHoneymoonBio


Where I've Stayed
The last time I was in Paris, I stayed at the Best Western Derby Eiffel Hotel. It’s right near the Rue Cler area on the Left Bank, walking distance from the Eiffel Tower, Invalides and Ecole Militaire. I would recommend staying in this area because it’s so convenient to everything. The Ecole Militaire stop is right in the middle of the neighborhood and you can be anywhere else in Paris in 20 minutes or less. There are tons of hotels and restaurants in the neighborhood—it’s a lovely area to walk around and enjoy. While I know that Rick Steves recommends one or two hotels on Rue Cler, I don’t recommend actually staying on this street because it can get noisy—especially in the morning when all the market vendors are arriving. The Derby Eiffel was nice. The rooms are small (as are all rooms in Paris), but clean and comfortable. There is a dining room and an elegant bar downstairs. The people at the front desk are so wonderful—we adored them and they went out of their way to arrange things for us. Great customer service! In Paris, Best Westerns are fairly nice, so it’s different than you’d think of them here.

Other hotels I can recommend in Paris: Hotel Madison (on the Left Bank), Hotel Majestic (near the Arc du Triomphe), Hotel Splendid (right next to the Derby Eiffel on the Left Bank).

Places to See in Paris

There are so many things to see and do in Paris. You could be there for weeks and still not get to everything. Here are the things I recommend putting at the top of your to-do list. You can read more about them on any travel website.

Musee d'Orsay
Notre Dame
Jardins des Tuileries
Arc du Triomphe
Ste-Chapelle
Sacre Coeur & Montmartre (including Moulin Rouge)
The Luxembourg Gardens
Opera Garnier
The Eiffel Tower
The Louvre

The wait to go up the Eiffel Tower is always long, especially in the summer. While I'm glad I went, I still prefer the inexpensive hike to the top of the Arc Du Triomphe. I could stand up there for hours looking at the panoramic view of the city! I highly recommend it, espcially if you don't have time and euros to spare for the Eiffel Tower.

Here's my suggestion for the Louvre. Go first thing in the morning, right when it opens. Then, sprint up into the Denon wing immediately and see Mona Lisa before the crowds get horrible. Then, you can wander around the rest of the Louvre at your leisure. Later in the day the mass of people around that little painting will be enormous. Also, I hear that you can buy your tickets online in advance and bypass the ticket line entirely. That sounds like a great idea.

When we go back to Paris this time we're going to make a point of doing some things we haven't done there before, including taking the "sewer tour" underneath the streets of Paris, visiting the Rodin Museum, checking out some of the cemeterys (particularly Pere Lachaise) and visting some of the smaller, lesser known churches.

Restaurants/Bars

I haven't done a lot of "fine dining in Paris, but here are a couple of places I recommend. Laduree is a famous pastry shop that specializes in macaroons. There are a couple of locations around the city where you can find Laduree-- and I recommend stopping in. The macaroons are expensive (for such little cookies) but just heavenly and it's fun to admire all the lovely sweets. A Parisian friend of mine insisted I go to Wine & Bubbles, a wine bar that is very popular with the 20 & 30 somethings in Paris. It's at 3 Rue Francais in the 1st arrondisment. Metro stop is Les Halles. Lots of fun and a good, young Parisian vibe. If you want great food and an amazing view of the city, you have to go to Georges. It's at the top of the Pompidou Center. Expensive, but cool.

Restaurants I recommend in the Rue Cler area: Le Bistrot de Papa (81, Avenue Bosquet), and Brasserie de l'Ecole Militaire (3 place de l'Ecole Militaire).

There's lots of places to go out at night in Paris, but one of the most fun experiences I've had I stumbled into at random. A friend of mine lives on the Rue de la Huchette (one of the oldest streets in Paris, FYI) right near Place St. Michel (Left Bank). That area is right near the Sorbonne and it's a madhouse at night! I went down to see my friend on a Friday night and the streets were packed. Young people everywhere, clubs, restaurants, music... it was really energizing and fun to hang out there for a while. This area is called the Latin Quarter and it's interesting to see during the day, as well.

Day Trips
The last time I was in Paris I took two day trips out of the city, to Versailles and Chartres. Versailles is about a 40 minute train ride from Paris. On the day we were there it was rainy and bitterly cold, so we couldn’t tour the gardens (evidently the best part of Versailles). The line to get into Versailles was easily an hour long, so we decided to purchase guided tour tickets. This got us in after only a 20 minute wait and was well worth the extra money. I wasn’t awed by Versailles, but I can see why other people might enjoy it. However, I highly recommend going to see Chartres, which was one of the highlights of our trip! Chartres is about an hour’s train ride from Paris. It features one of the largest and most magnificent gothic cathedrals in the world. If you’ve read “The DaVinci Code,” you’ll remember Chartres Cathedral as being important. Not only is the Cathedral is just astounding, but the town that surrounds it is lovely and charming in every way. I had the best time wandering around the town. As for the cathedral, you MUST take a guided tour given by Englishman (and Chartres expert) Malcolm Miller. I’m not a big “guided tour person”, but his perspective was so eye-opening and really made the Cathedral come to life. I believe the tours are 10 euro each and there are 2-3 every day. I think that ours was at 1 or 2pm.

At the end of our stay in Paris, we rented a car and drove to Reims, about an hour east of the city. We could have taken the train, which is inexpensive and direct, but I’m glad we chose to drive. We drove through all these little towns along the way—it was a great way to see the countryside and get off the beaten path. The car was inexpensive and the driving is very easy in France. Just make sure you have euros for the tolls!

Reims is the heart of France’s champagne region. There are tons of champagne houses where you can take tours. We toured the Mumm house and it was a lot of fun. Reims itself has a lot to offer. There is so much shopping there!! Great stores, too. Also, there were lots of good restaurants. The food here is slightly more Germanic (you’re close to the Belgian border), so lots of sausages and such. There is a gorgeous cathedral in Reims (more gothic architecture) that’s worth seeing. Also, you’re close to a lot of the major battlefields of WWII (like Verdun) so there are memorials, museums and graveyards everywhere. As you drive along the road in Eastern France you just see marker after marker commemorating battles. I think that Reims is definitely worth a visit, particularly if you’re a fan of champage!

From Reims, I took the train back to Paris and the airport, which required two connections but was pretty easy. It was a wonderful trip. Have a great time in France. It’s a spectacular place!!

p.s. I have to recommend a GREAT book about Paris that I recently read and loved. It's called "Paris to the Moon" by Adam Gopnick. Gopnick is an American writer who moved to Paris for 5 years with his wife and young son. He wrote a memoir about his time there and it's EXCELLENT. You should pick it up to read on the plane!

[Rosebud]

Some favorite Paris photos:

http://images.snapfish.com/34432%3A7523232%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658 %3DXROQDF%3E2323586%3A2%3C9%3C3ot1lsi
Eiffel Tower

http://images.snapfish.com/34432%3A7523232%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658 %3DXROQDF%3E2323586%3A2%3C9%3C5ot1lsi
Cafe near Rue Cler

http://images.snapfish.com/34432%3A7523232%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658 %3DXROQDF%3E2323586%3A2%3C9%3C6ot1lsi
Moulin Rouge

http://images.snapfish.com/34432%3A7523232%7Ffp64%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658 %3DXROQDF%3E2323586%3A2%3C9%3C8ot1lsi
Boat on the Seine

http://images.snapfish.com/34432%3A7523232%7Ffp54%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658 %3DXROQDF%3E23236496%3A%3B46%3Aot1lsi
Storage courtyard at The Louvre

[Kristy]

Luxembourg has the most gorgeous castles and cathedrals. I had rolls and rolls of film of just that lol. Try to head to Brussels when you go to Belgium, and go to the Sacred Aisle. Wonderful for food and shopping.

[Akemi]

Berthillion ice cream. I completely loved Paris, and that's my fondest memory.

[Freckles]

Take the riverboat tour of Paris along the Seine----it will hit many of the major spots. Notre Dame, Champs Elysées, Louvre,etc. You can get on & off at will. The Louve is a MAJOR undertaking. The Effiel Tower is remarkable. Enjoy a leisurely meal with some delicious champagne in the city proper. Walk a bit. The lights at night are stunning.

[bookworm]

I've been to Paris twice; the first time I was indifferent, the 2nd time I liked it much better.

On the 2nd trip, we did a few Paris Walks (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/pariswalking/) . Of course it's all tourists, but that's what we were! It's a good way to get out and see a neighborhood. My favorites were the Marais and Montmarte.

I'd also recommend having a wander around the Isle de St. Louis--it's a charming neighborhood in the middle of the river. As I recall, there is a main drag with a lot of good-looking restaurants. I can't remember where we ate.

Know your limitations with the Louvre. You could spend a week and not see it all. I understand feeling like you have to go, but I'll never do it again. It's so huge, and overwhelming, and it's hard to find the exits.

Have a wonderful trip!

[tlew12778]

Does anyone have a decent hotel/B&B in Paris they want to recommend? I'm considering the Hotel Saint-Paul (http://www.hotels-exclusive.com/hotels/saint_paul/index_en.htm) that was recommended by others on WC but I just looked at the virtual tour and I am not sure it's worth my 148 euro per night. Ideally I'd like to stay around 100 euro per night but I'm willing to pay more if it's worth it. We're just going for a couple nights (Oct 29-31).

Thanks!

[Myra]

We stayed at the Hotel Libertel by Moulin Rouge last year. Great location, great service. Got is on priceline for $75 (American) per night; I think other guests were paying at least twice that amount!

[emmjay]

I've never stayed here (it was booked when I went to Paris), but this place gets great reviews on Fodors.com and is in the 75 - 100 euro range: Hotel du Champ de Mars (www.hotel-du-champ-de-mars.com)

The review from Fodors -
If you'd like an affordable, B&B-ish, but fully modern room near the Tour Eiffel and Les Invalides, this is an excellent choice. Françoise and Stéphane Gourdal's comfortable hotel has an appealing down-home feel. Chippie, their faithful old dog, can be found lounging in the vibrant Provençal lobby. Rooms include custom wall stenciling and chair covers, and are named for flowers such as tornesol, lilas, and mimosa; the two on the ground floor open onto a private leafy courtyard. The triple room is a split-level duplex, with a small flight of stairs leading up to a sitting room. 25 rooms. Dining room, in-room safes, cable TV; no a/c. MC, V. Métro: École Militaire.

Address: 7 rue du Champ de Mars, Invalides, Paris 75007, France
Phone: 01-45-51-52-30
Fax: 01-45-51-64-36

and you can read traveler's reviews here: Champ de Mars Reviews (http://www.fodors.com/miniguides/mgresults.cfm?destination=paris@117&cur_section=lod&property_id=57377)

The other reviewed B&Bs and hotels on Fodors are here: Fodors Miniguides - Paris (http://www.fodors.com/miniguides/mgresults.cfm?destination=paris@117&cur_section=lod&sort=price&review=brief&pg=1) if you want to do some other research by price range.

[STLwed]

We stayed at Best Western Nouvel Orleans for a week
http://book.bestwestern.com/bestwestern/productInfo.do?propertyCode=93544

It was literally across the street from a metro stop (I didn't know how I'd find it, but I stepped out of the metro and it was right there). Plus, it's not in a touristy area, it's in a neighborhood so you feel much more immersed in the French culture - walk around and see the little vendors, shops, and see people walking around carryig baguettes everywhere. (plus, it's right by the catacombs if you want to do that) I think we paid about 80 Euro/night.

I also stayed 2 nights at Best Western Hotel Beloy Saint-Germain:
http://book.bestwestern.com/bestwestern/productInfo.do?propertyCode=93506

It's much closer to touristy stuff, but farther from a metro, and you're more "in the city" rather than in a neighborhood. I think it's more expensive than the other also. (130 Euro/night?)

Now, when I was there for work, I stayed at the Renaissaince Paris La Defence
http://marriott.com/property/propertypage.mi?marshaCode=PARLD

Really nice hotel, definitely out of my price range (switched to the first hotel when it switched from company paid to me paying!). Near the metro/rer, but in the "big building" area of Paris. It's their version of Manhattan - La Defence has all the tall buildings and workers, and a mall (with Ben & Jerry's!) - not near the "real" paris of sidewalk cafes and older buildings.

Hope this helps!

:)
Liz

[dionysia]

We stayed at the Hotel Royal Phare (http://www.hotel-royalphare-paris.com/index.html) in May. It's near the Champs de Mars/Eiffel Tower/Ecole Militaire. The Ecole Militare metro stop is literally right in front of the hotel. The hotel is in a great location, with a supermaket & ATM next door and a lot of shops and restaurants within walking distance. The hotel itself was very clean and a good value for money. We had a room facing the back of the hotel, so it was quiet.

Di

[meggiedarlin]

I'm going to second the recommendation for Hotel du Champ de Mars. We
stayed in the "Lila" room. It had a tiny little terrace in front of the door. Very charming and close to metro stops. The Effiel tower is about a 5 minute walk away. Loved it!

[tlew12778]

Too bad the Champs de Mars does not have anything available for the nights we are going. It looked perfect. I'm going to try some of those Fodor ones to see if we have any luck there.

[tinkerbelljenny]

We stayed here when we went to Paris:
The Hotel France Eiffel
http://i.travelocity.com.edgesuite.net/tvly/photos/hotel/030841A.jpg
The service was incredible. We loved it. It also comes with an amazing breakfast and the hotel is close to everything. It also has two really close restaurants to eat at.
http://www.escapade-paris.com/eiffel/index_anglais.htm

[junkinmytrunk]

What are your favorite non-touristy things to do in Paris? Would love to add them to my list of "to do's" while visiting.

TIA!

[bookworm]

By non-touristy, do you mean "not major sights and attractions" or "not things tourists generally do"? If it's the former, I have to recommend Paris Walks (http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/pariswalking/). Obviously, they are for tourists--guided walks in English. But they let you explore and learn about neighborhoods you might not otherwise see. I particularly enjoyed the one in the Marais.

Even without a guide, it's a great city for wandering.

[junkinmytrunk]

Bookworm: I guess I mean both. I suppose we like the hidden, the undergroud -- things that are unusal and off the beaten bath.

I like all the suggestions though -- very helpful. Thanks.

[mom_to_zoe]

First of all, when you arrive, go to a street kiosk and buy a magazine called Pariscope. It lists all the events in the city that week and there is an English language section in the middle. That might alert you to some special exhibits and events that you wouldn't otherwise hear about.

Paris is rich in smaller museums often located in former private homes, known as maison particulier. They are so much easier to digest than the biggies of the Louvre, the Musee d'Orsay and Pompidou and are less overrun with tourists. I like the Rodin museum, the Picasso museum, the Musee Carnavalet (history of Paris) and the Musee Maillol. I also adore the Place des Vosges and the Jardin du Luxembourg. When I was a student in Paris, I ate lunch in the Jardin everyday. Smaller churches are another way to see some less typical sites. I wouldn't skip Notre Dame (especially the wonderful catacomb exhibit) or Sainte-Chappelle, where I could spend hours looking at the stained glass, but Saint-Sulpice and Saint Germain des Pres are nice. One off-the-beaten path tourist attraction is the Catacombs. It's an underground ossuary basically and you can walk through it. It is not for the clastrophobic but it is quite a wild experience. It is near the Place des Italiens metro stop.

Make time to stop at neighborhood outdoor markets. Buy provisions for a picnic. There's a wonderful market near the Boulevard Raspail (and close to the Jardin du Lux) but I don't remember which day. I bet the City of Paris has a website that would list the market days for the different neighborhoods.

Eat ethnic food. Paris has amazing West African and Vietnamese/Cambodian food. Buy a crepe from a street creperie. Buy a merguez (Morroccan lamb sausage) and frites from a street vendor. Go into any patisserie and buy sandwices for lunch. I used to love the ham, the camembert or the hard-boiled egg sandwiches.

Most of all, enjoy my beloved Paris.

[mgrace]

My vote goes to eating. Sit in a cafe for hours and enjoy wine and/or coffee. Eat the fabulous food. Buy some chocolate. Go to the markets. Find a great boulangerie and get croissants. Buy some wine. Eat some crepes and a sandwich (ham and cheese--jambon and frommage) Walk, walk, walk. Just enjoy *being* in Paris--you can't go wrong.

[junkinmytrunk]

Mom to Zoe and Mgrace: All that sounds lovely and wonderful. You've both succeeded in making me HUNGRY! I'm actually pregnant and will be while we're there but I'm sure there will be plenty of delicious stuff to eat -- I'm thinking I'll gorge myself on crepes.

I was thinking the catacombs would be very cool -- glad to see you recommend them!

We'll be staying in the 7th Arrond. so if you all have any recos in that area I'd be happy to check stuff out!

[mom_to_zoe]

I went to Italy when I was about five months pregnant with Zoe and I used my pregnancy as an excuse to eat gelato twice a day, so I say you should eat your way through Paris with abandon! FWIW, my favorite are butter and sugar (beurre et sucre) crepes. Also, be forewarned that the Catacombs involve quite a bit of walking, like a few miles at least, so make sure you feel up to it before you head down into them.

[ShannonGH]

Lisa, I just had to stop in and say how JEALOUS I am of you going to Paris over the holidays! You will have so much fun!!!

FWIW, when I went to Paris at age 16 we did the Catacombs and I remember them being very cool.

[junkinmytrunk]

Thanks Shannon! Should be a romantic babymoon -- at least I hope it is!

[Amuse Bouche]

Oh, what a great trip! Go to the Deux Magots and get a hot chocolate. It costs the earth but is SO worth it, for the chocolate AND the people watching! If you're going in December, unfortunately it's not great picnic weather. :( Explore the little off the beaten path churches. Or even the not off-the-beaten path churches, like Ste. Chappelle. Go shopping! The Au Bon Marche department store in the 6th is lots of fun -- definitely check out their food halls.

[MandyMaloo]

My fiance and I are going to France for 2 weeks for our honeymoon and we're kinds clueless about international travel. FH has been there before, but it was almost 4 years ago. We're looking for something close to the Louve (the main reason we're going) but we're hoping to spend some time in the smaller French towns. So I have a few questions for any of you jet setting Erou travelers!

* Is hotwire a good place to book flights and find hotels? Here (http://www.hotwire.com/package/results.jsp?lid=package/searching.jsp:search:loc:0:search) is what we've been looking at--are the prices pretty good?
* How much money should be bring for 2 weeks?
* How do we get from one town to another? Does the Metro run all over the country?
* How do the people there feel when they are approached by someone who can't speak much french? I'm learning, but I don't know how much it will help, so I wanna make sure we can still get around.


I have so many questions, but those are the major ones. If anyone has any ideas or advice-I'm all ears! Thanks in advance! :)

[PG-rated]

How much time do you want to spend in Paris vs. other towns? You could do two weeks in Paris with no problem, but of course then you won't see anything else. What types of experiences do you want outside Paris? Castles? Beaches? Wine country?

Check out Frommer's or other travel sites to narrow down your choices a bit, and things should start to fall into place for you.

[MandyMaloo]

Thanks for the advice!!

We're really interested in seeing places like the Mon Saint Michelle (I totally butchered that spelling) and the smaller villages. We're not really crazy about wine or the beach (it'll be in November). We're not sure what the biggest touristy sites are in other places (other than Normandy which we're definatly going to).

I'll look into Frommers...anyone have any other answers for us??

[Amuse Bouche]

I'd spend at least a week in Paris. The neighborhoods are numbered and are called Arondissements -- You could stay in the 1st, near the Louvre (zip code ending in 01), but I personally would stay in the 5th (zip code ending in 05), right across the river from the Louvre (there are lots of bridges) which is more fun (it's where the university is, and a lot of the old buildings and little cafes) and usually more budget friendly (the 1st tends to be more upscale in terms of shops and things).

I wouldn't book hotels in France through hotwire -- they have different chains than we do, and often the non-chain hotels are nicer and better priced.

I don't know why exactly you want to go to Normandy, so feel free to ignore this, but if I were going to France for the first time and wanted to see some of the countryside outside of Paris I'd probably go to the Loire Valley (little towns and monasteries and chateaux) or to Provence (little villages and farmhouses and such), especially in November. Normandy is further north and colder and there's less to see. Mont St. Michel is pretty cool, but I wouldn't call it one of my top attractions in France.

The train system in France is excellent, and you should be able to get to places. If you're not in Paris however, I would arrange to rent a car and base yourself in one of the towns, then use the car to explore the countryside. They drive on the same side of the road that we do.

I'd try to learn a few French phrases -- people in Paris generally speak English, but they're more likely to if you try to speak French to them first. At least learn how to say I don't speak very good French, I'm sorry. In the countryside, you're more likely to come across people who really don't speak English.

If you want advice from a travel agent, one CCer who spent part of her honeymoon in France is a travel agent - she's around the boards a lot.

[bookworm]

I agree with Amuse Bouche that you can easily spend a week in Paris. In addition to hotels, you might look into apartment rentals--that's what I want to do next time so I can take advantage of some of the markets and do some cooking (but I really enjoy that).

* How much money should be bring for 2 weeks?
I'm no help with budgeting (the first time I was there was doing the student backpack through Europe thing and staying in hostels, and the 2nd time I traveled with my mother, whose taste is not budget), but in Paris you can use Visa just about everywhere, and you can get cash from ATMs with your US ATM card.

* How do we get from one town to another? Does the Metro run all over the country?
There is a pretty thorough train system. I believe Thomas Cook has all of the schedules.

* How do the people there feel when they are approached by someone who can't speak much french?
I don't know how they feel, but most people in Paris are polite when you make an effort to say a few words, always including please and thank you.

Have a nice trip!

[tenofcups]

I've been to France several times (and spent a semester there many years ago), although not recently so I can't answer any of the pricing questions. The metro is the subway system in Paris, but the train system throughout the country is pretty extensive and can get you anywhere. It used to be pretty centralized in that sometimes you'd have to go from one major city to another and then go to the smaller city you wanted to end up at and I imagine it's still that way. I took the TGV (super-fast) train, oh about 20 years ago, and it was a blast--unlike anything we have in this country.

You could easily spend a week in Paris.

The Loire Valley is spectacular, but do some research. I was there in the winter and a lot of the chateaux were not open for viewing at that time, so make sure things are open at the time you'd visit.

I haven't been to Normandy, but I've also always wanted to go to Mont St. Michel! I'm not sure what else is there (besides WWII sites of course). I believe Giverny (of Monet fame) is in that general area?

I've spent a lot of time in the southeast (Riviera) which is where I went to school. Nice is very interesting and from there, there are several really quaint and lovely villages -- Cagne sur Mer, Eze, Biot to name a few. Also, Monte Carlo (Monaco) is in that general area. The weather should be great at that time of year.

I also really enjoy the southwest, around Biarritz and the Pyrenees.

ETA: About the language: I've found most French people really appreciate it if you make the effort to start the conversation in French. At the very least, something like "Excuse me, do you speak English?" (in French) will get you a lot further than just starting to speak in English. In Paris, I've always found people to be helpful, but use common sense in who you approach on the street--the businessperson who's rushing somewhere is likely not going to take the time to help you while someone who seems to be a little more relaxed most likely will.

[MandyMaloo]

Thank you for all the WONDERFUL advice!!

This actually answers a bunch of questions for me. It helps to have all this information. I didn't want to get over there and be completely lost and be "that tourist". I'm trying really hard to really learn French. It's probably not going to sound very good to them, but I'm sure they'll appreciate that I'm trying :).

My FH wants to go back to Normandy because he's a big WW2 buff and woudld like to see more than he got to see last time he was out there.

I think what we'll do is spend one week in Paris and the rest of the vacation we'll spend in the smaller towns. We're thinking about heading over to Italy, but we're not positive.

Can anyone suggest any websites for hotels?

Thank you again for the amazing advice--it helping us so much!!!

[tenofcups]

I meant to write this in my first post, but forgot. Anyway, not sure if you know about the train passes you can get or not, but if you're going to be traveling by train (which I personally like to do), definitely consider a train pass. You can only buy one in the U.S. and they make train travel considerably cheaper.

You can buy a Eurail pass if you're traveling all over, but you can also buy a pass that's just good in France or one that's good for France and a combination of other countries. Check out this web site for more info and to see if you think it might be worthwhile:
http://www.raileurope.com/us/rail/passes/france_index.htm?WT.mc_id=Google_France_rail_pass&WT.srch=1

[Leia]

I'd also like to second a visit to the Loire Valley. I went in January one year, and it was fine in winter, and the major venues were all open.

I agree with tenofcups - I really wouldn't worry about the language. They'll appreciate that you attempt to make an effort. I speak very little French, and I got by fine for several weeks when I had to work in our Paris office. I was polite, made my best effort with my limited vocab, and I had no problems.

I'd recommend some time on the Fodor's travel boards.

[Rosebud]

Hi!

I spent two weeks in France, Belgium and Amsterdam for my honeymoon last year. Check out my trip review & photos that I posted afterwards. There's lots of detail about Paris and the Loire Valley here which should be helpful!

Trip Review from my French Honeymoon (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=10130&highlight=european+honeymoon)


You're going to LOVE Paris. So, so amazing and romantic. There are sightseeing & restaurant recommendations in my review, plus you should definitely check out the Fodors.com message boards.

As for getting around.... in Paris you can walk or take the Metro everywhere. It's very easy to get around. Once you leave the city, you can take the TGV trains into the countryside, but depending on where you want to go from there you may want a rental car. We did this in the Loire Valley and it was surprisingly easy. We just made a reservation at Avis.com and the car was waiting when we got off the train. French roads are generally quite good and well marked. I've driven all over the Loire and Champagne regions and never had a problem.

Here's a good website on getting to Normandy from Paris:
HERE (http://www.normandy-tourism.org/w/trans/transp1.htm)

I haven't been to Normandy, but my husband has. He says that you'll really only want a couple of days in the area. So, if you have two weeks in France, I'd recommend spending a full week in Paris (there's plenty to keep you occupied for a week) and then take the train up to Normandy for a couple of days.

Once you're in Normandy, you're in the north of the country and it's going to be really far to get to places like Italy or the French Riviera-- I'm not sure you'll have enough time. I would recommend the Loire Valley or Brittany if you'd like to see another region. They're close enough that you can get there by train and not spend a whole day in transit. And it keeps you close enough to Paris that you can still fly home from Paris.

I'd definitely recommend the Loire Valley. It was the absolute highlight of our honeymoon-- beautiful, lush and romantic in every way. The place we stayed in Amboise, Chateau Des Ormeaux (http://www.chateaudesormeaux.fr/), was a dream honeymoon castle that I never wanted to leave.

In Paris, I can recommend a couple of places that are nice but won't break the bank. On the Left Bank (which I adore and always prefer to stay there), check out Hotel Madison (http://www.hotel-madison.com/). And I was just reading a feature in the L.A. Times about a hotel they called a "best kept secret" in Paris-- supposedly lovely and quite affordable, Hotel Degres de Notre Dame (http://lesdegreshotel.monsite.wanadoo.fr/). It's in the Latin Quarter, just across from Notre Dame. We stayed in this neighborhood on our honeymoon and it was a lot of fun-- and not far from the Louvre.

Please feel free to PM me if you have any questions and good luck planning!!
:)

[la_bride_2004]

We went to Paris in March to celebrate our anniversary. It was amazing.

-We brought 500 Euros in cash with us, and it was about the perfect amount. Yes, many places do take Visa (particularly the stores), but many of the cafes, bistros, patisseries and sidewalk crepe vendors do not. :) We were in Paris for a week. We found we got a better foreign exchange rate by ordering the currency through our big bank here (they sent it to our local branch for pick-up, no handling fee).

-I would definitely recommend staying somewhere within close proximity to a Metro station. I found the place we stayed at on TripAdvisor, and I can't recommend it highly enough. It was within walking distance to the Opera and the large department stores. They served an incredible breakfast buffet every morning too, and it was on a quiet residential street. The concierges we are all extremely helpful in terms of recommending how to get around and good, local places to eat. It was also a bargain! Less than $110 a night if I remember correctly. (March is off season though). It has 72 positive ratings on trip advisor, and is called the Hotel Opera Cadet.

http://www.hotel-opera-cadet.fr/index_uk.html

Picture I took:

http://images1.snapfish.com/346%3B%3B82%3A6%7Ffp33%3A%3Enu%3D3238%3E4%3B7%3E76 4%3EWSNRCG%3D3233576242394nu0mrj


-We booked a tour of Versailles through a travel outfit called "Paris Vision."
http://www.parisvision.com/fr/index.cfm

Basically, you meet in a central location on the Rue de Rivoli (easily accessed from the Metro!) and they will take you on whatever tour you sign up for. They conduct the tours in many languages, including English. We liked the Versailles tour so much we signed up for the Loire Valley tour, which was completely spectacular and I'd definitely recommend (It was an all day tour including lunch.) We chose the tours versus driving because it was snowing heavily in March and I was very afraid we'd get lost, plus, I didn't want to hassle with entry tickets or trying to figure out which chateaux were worth seeing. Next time we go, since I now feel oriented, I will drive.

(BTW- I see they have a "D Day and Normandy " tour and a "Mont-Saint Michel" tour all ready to go- that would certainly make your life easier!).


-I really wanted to do a Seine river cruise, but was kind of shocked at the prices ($90 and up per person for the dinner cruise). I've also heard from many the food was not that good. However, the concierge pointed us to "Bateaux Parisiens". They leave from near the foot of the Eiffel Tower, and for 8 euro will take you on a cruise around the city. We went at sunset and it was spectacular- definitely a highlight of the trip! (We then had dinner at a delicious brasserie).

-I speak French, not so fluently anymore, but enough to read newspapers and get around fairly easily. I have to say the only time I spoke English there was to my husband, but I did notice that many people could speak English if they needed to.

Hope you have a wonderful trip! : )

[Rosebud]

A friend of mine just emailed me photos from her trip to the Loire Valley. She went a lot of the places that I went on my honeymoon last year, which brought back some great memories. Thought I'd post the photos here for inspiration!

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/elaceyfield/Azay.jpg
Azay-Le-Rideu

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/elaceyfield/loire.jpg
Boats on the Loire River

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/elaceyfield/moulinsdevontes.jpg
Their hotel, Moulins de Vontes

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/elaceyfield/usse.jpg
Chateau de Usse

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/elaceyfield/aquaduct.jpg
An old Roman aquaduct

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/elaceyfield/chenonceau.jpg
Chenonceau

[Rosebud]

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/elaceyfield/chinon.jpg
Chinon

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/elaceyfield/chinon2.jpg
Chinon

[jesseybell]

I have been to France twice - once for 6 weeks when I was in high school and then 3 years ago (at this time of year too!) for 16 years with a friend of mine.

Is it possible for you to rent a car? You don't need an international drivers license. If you are going to to travel outside Paris, I highly recommend it. You absorb so much more of the country. The only thing is you really need to be able to drive a standard - we had rented an automatic, but they didn't have any and it would have been much more expensive. Luckily my friend was a quick learner (I already knew how). We rented it from Avis or one of the big names.

I don't have our itinerary here at work, but I will try for memory -
Night 1 in Paris (picked up the car the next day)- stayed at a Best Western near the Champs Elysees
Drove to Mont St Michel for 1 night
Drove down to the Loire Valley for 2 nights
Stayed 1 night "on the road"
Stayed in Aix-De-Provence (south of France) for 3 nights
Stayed in St Tropez (swanky!) for 3 nights
Stayed another night "on the road"
Stayed in Paris for 4-5 nights

It was a lot of driving, but definite some down time too. In 2 weeks I wouldn't go all the way to the south of France, but Mont St Michel isn't far away and then I would DEFINITELY go to the Loire Valley.

I wish I could remember where I got the names of all the hotels. I did most stuff on-line but not through one of the big websites - the places we found all had their own websites and most took reservations on-line (we had to do a little bit of faxing). Outside of Paris I would stay in smaller places - they are going to be more "typically french" - we stayed in llittle inns, a chateau in the Loire Valley. Ahhh....the memories.

I would definitely stay near the Metro in Paris - you'll be using it a lot!

You can get to Versailles from Paris using public transporation (or charters will take you out there) - we just happened to do it on the day we were going back to Paris.

$ - you can spend a lot or a little - a lot of it was the food - we enjoyed ourselves and enjoyed the wine (not that all the wine is very expensive).

The highlights of Paris (besides people watching from a cafe) are the Louvre, Musee D'Orsay, Eiffel Tower, a ride on a Bateaux Mouche, visit some of the gardens.

I would definitely pick up some French. My friend didn't really know any which didn't make travel impossible, but it makes it more fun when you can talk the language a little bit.

The only tip I would give you is, outside of Paris, we had the darndest time getting lunch. We were never hungry during typical lunch hours, but most places were closed in the afternoon when we wanted something...so we resorted to McDonalds a couple times I hate to admit (you definitely realize why Americans are fat - you can actually get a small fries, small drink and a hamburger there without having to order a happy meal!)

Enjoy.

ETA: I was just looking on Quicken and I took out about 1200 Euros from ATMS while I was there (but ours wasn't a highly budget trip and I was with a friend so the 1200 Euros was just for me). I tried to only put hotels and meals on my credit card (I didn't use my debit card for anything except ATMS). The only bad thing about credit cards is that you get the exchange rate of when the transaction is posted, so I really didn't know exactly how much $ I was spending until my credit card bill came (but on the cc bill it puts the exchange rate).
Also I am being reminded for the few little hotels that required a deposit before we went, I paid with PayPal, not directly with my credit card.

[la_bride_2004]

Rosebud Gorgeous photos!! Did your friend just get back? I'm really shocked at the difference from March 2006 to May 2006, both in weather and the amount of tourists!!

I had to laugh at this! (Even compare the trees and the people on the front balcony)

This is your friend's picture of Chenonceau

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h101/elaceyfield/chenonceau.jpg

And my picture:

http://images1.snapfish.com/346%3C36%3B3%3B%7Ffp339%3Enu%3D3238%3E4%3B7%3E764% 3EWSNRCG%3D3233576243%3A56nu0mrj

[la_bride_2004]

Found another one, after it started snowing some more. These people were on my tour.

http://images1.snapfish.com/346%3C36%3B3%3B%7Ffp345%3Enu%3D3238%3E4%3B7%3E764% 3EWSNRCG%3D3233576233773nu0mrj

[ladyjusticemoni]

I LOVE Paris. I stayed at 2 hotels near the Louvre (which is in the 1st district). They were called Hotel de Louvre and Hotel Normandy. They are so close to the Louvre, Tuilerres Gardens, shops, restaurants and the Metro. Also, if you love to shop, please visit MONOPRIX. It's like a Target. All the locals shop there and you can find such great deals from wine, cheeses, cosmetics, clothes and shoes! I hope this helps! HAVE FUN!!!!

[Rosebud]

Thought I would update this thread with links to the other France/ Paris threads on this board.

Paris Hotels and B&Bs (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=7407)

7 Days in Paris too much? (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=21785)

Paris at Christmas (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=12472)

Disneyland Paris (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=12650)

[Rosebud]

From the L.A. Times:

$weet dreams in the big 3 / Paris
By Susan Spano

March 12, 2006

QUINTESSENTIALLY LOVELY, Paris is the city of dreams. Take, for instance, 72 hours in a suite at the Crillon on the Place de la Concorde. That legendary hotel recently offered a three-night package, including airport transfers, breakfast, a tour of the premises and lunch at its vaunted Les Ambassadeurs restaurant. The price: $30,000.

At about the same time, six of the city's top hotels, including the Crillon, were fined for price-fixing.

If that doesn't take the stars out of your eyes about Paris, nothing will.

Far better, I think, is to pursue a different, but wholly achievable dream, set in a small, sweet, ivy-covered Paris budget hotel, from which you may see Notre-Dame Cathedral or the twinkling lights of the Eiffel Tower if you stand, craning your neck, at the window.

Degres de Notre Dame

I feel like a rat, outing the Degres de Notre Dame, one of the most appealing budget hotels I've ever seen in the City of Light. It's in the Latin Quarter just across the Seine from the eastern apse of the great medieval cathedral where Victor Hugo's hunchback rang the bells.

The Times reader who told me about the hotel said to keep it hush-hush. But I have loose lips. Besides, people should know about this charmer on one of the prettiest little squares in Paris, even if they have to plan way ahead to get a room there.

The Degres de Notre Dame is on the quiet east side of touristy St.-Michel, above a restaurant that features French and Moroccan cuisine, where the tables spread to the sidewalk in warm weather. It has 10 doubles on five floors starting at $132, all walk-ups with attached baths. The big room on the top floor, priced at $192, has a kitchenette and a view of the cathedral. But my favorite is the blue room, overlooking the street, which has a smashing tiled bath.

Breakfast is served in the cafe-bar downstairs, where guests check in and out because there's no lobby. Across the square is the perfect Latin Quarter restaurant, La Maison, with a beloved brindled mastiff as the mascot.

Degres de Notre Dame, 10 Rue des Grands Degres, 011-33-1-55-42-88-88; doubles from $132, including breakfast.

Hotel de la Bretonnerie

ONE of the things I like most about the Hotel de la Bretonnerie, in the delightful Marais, is its versatility. It has 29 rooms on five floors, but because of the 17th century building's state-protected antiquity, they were never renovated cookie-cutter style, so they retain their old, singular configurations. If you call and say you're a honeymooning couple, a single or a family of four, the management will give you accommodations suited to your needs.

A solo traveler or romantic couple would be well-pleased by one of the Bretonnerie's small but handsome canopy-bed doubles, at $138. A family would thrive in a junior suite, with two rooms separated by a bath, for $216. Chambers on upper floors have wood beams, and all are decorated with pretty fabrics and wallpaper.

Then, too, no one could ask for a better Right Bank location. The Bretonnerie is on one of the main walking routes between the Pompidou Centre and the Marais, with its elegant Place des Vosges, and Picasso and Carnavalet museums.

Hotel de la Bretonnerie, 22 Rue St.-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 011-33-1-48-87-77-63, http://www.bretonnerie.com ; doubles from $138.

Hôtel du Dragon

I cut my frugal-travel teeth at the Hotel du Dragon, on the Left Bank near St.-Germain-des-Pres, with its 11th century church, chic shops and landmark cafes, including Les Deux Magots and Cafe de Flore. A decade ago, I stayed in a small double, at the end of a dark, winding corridor with timer-controlled lights and shared toilets.

My room had a sink, jury-rigged shower, sway-backed bed, black-and-white TV mounted on the wall, window overlooking an airshaft and the unmistakable smell of a Paris budget hotel. As I recall, I was happy there, but then I got spoiled and started wanting somewhat more luxurious accommodations in the City of Light.

When I recently returned to the Dragon, I found that the rooms had been redecorated and upgraded, though they are still affordably priced at $130, double occupancy. The style is traditional, almost countrified, with wood beams and old armoires. Now, all 29 chambers have private baths, telephones, TVs and hair dryers, though there is still no elevator. Evidently, the French family that has run the place for five generations puts a lot of care into the Dragon.

Hotel du Dragon, 36 Rue du Dragon, 011-33-1-45-48-51-05, http://www.hoteldudragon.com ; doubles $130.

Hotel du Palais Bourbon

THERE are three hotels on the Rue de Bourgogne in the Left Bank's 7th arrondissement, which runs between the Rodin Museum and Palais Bourbon, home of the French National Assembly. My favorite is the well-kept, professionally managed, 30-room Hotel du Palais Bourbon, a two-star hotel with the polish, décor and amenities of a three-star.

There's a demure little lobby downstairs and an elevator. Upstairs, the rooms are unusually large, with burnished wood floors, Oriental rugs, big windows, high ceilings, flat-screen TVs and large private baths.

The neighborhood is one of the safest in Paris, thanks to gendarmes on almost every corner protecting the seat of the French government. Les Invalides is a few blocks west and Boulevard St. Germain a short walk east. Le Lotus Blanc is virtually next door, a postage stamp-size Southeast Asian restaurant with terrific pad Thai.

Hotel du Palais Bourbon, 49 Rue de Bourgogne; 011-33-1-44-11-30-70, http://www.hotel-palais-bourbon.com ; doubles from $150, including breakfast.

Hotel Langlois

THE area around St. Trinite isn't one of the city's grandest neighborhoods, but it can boast a budget hotel of considerable distinction. The Hotel Langlois is in a building from the 1870s with much of its 19th century style intact, thanks to owners who preferred to refurbish the hotel's Belle Epoque architectural detail instead of gutting the place, modernizing and adding rooms at the expense of space.

The lobby has an elaborately carved wooden archway and wide, graceful staircase that spirals around an old cage elevator. Even the landings are decorated with antique furniture and art, as are the rooms, mostly doubles priced from $125. Those on the sixth and seventh floors retain their 19th century character and have Paris rooftop views. Some have fireplaces, neoclassical statuary and built-in wood armoires that take up an entire wall. On other floors, there is a mélange of styles such as Art Deco and midcentury modern, but all the furnishings are authentic, selected with a connoisseur's eye.

Other, more practical, details please as well: the four-day weather report offered to guests, uninflated mini-bar prices (for instance, a bottle of mineral water costs $1.80, about the same as on the street) and $12 breakfasts brought to the rooms for no extra service charge.

Up until five years ago, the Langlois was the Hotel des Croisés. But then Jonathan Demme shot part of his "Charade" remake there, calling it the Langlois, and the name stuck.

Hotel Langlois, 63 Rue St.-Lazare; 011-33-1-48-74-78-24, http://www.hotel-langlois.com ; doubles from $125.

Hotel Mansart

THE Hotel Mansart is part of Esprit de France, a small, home-grown chain with seven moderately priced hotels in Paris. From the Aiglon near Montparnasse to the D'Orsay and Place du Louvre, all are exceptionally well-maintained and run. But I single out the Mansart because its rates, from $197 for doubles, are surprisingly reasonable given its style and location near the Place Vendôme.

The Mansart, next door to Bulgari and around the corner from the Ritz, has 57 rooms on seven floors and most of the technological bells and whistles business travelers need.

Fashion industry people have cottoned to this place, thanks to its reasonable rates and proximity to Rue St. Honore. Plus, it's airy and cheerful, and its rooms are decorated in a cool classical and contemporary mix.

Hotel Mansart, 5 Rue des Capucines; 011-33-1-42-61-50-28, http://www.esprit-de-france.com ; doubles from $197.

[Rosebud]

Some good Paris guidebooks:

Other than the standard guidebooks (Fodors, Frommers, Eyewitness, Rick Steves, Lonely Planet, etc) here are some recommendations:

Romantic Paris by Thirza Vallois
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/1566564581.01._BO2,204,203,200_PIsitb-dp-500-arrow,TopRight,45,-64_AA240_SH20_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

Walks In Hemingway's Paris : A Guide To Paris For The Literary Traveler by Noel R. Fitch
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/0312071132.01._BO2,204,203,200_PIsitb-dp-500-arrow,TopRight,45,-64_AA240_SH20_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

The Historic Restaurants of Paris: A Guide to Century-Old Cafes, Bistros, and Gourmet Food Shops by Ellen Williams
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/P/1892145030.01._BO2,204,203,200_PIsitb-dp-500-arrow,TopRight,45,-64_AA240_SH20_SCLZZZZZZZ_V64055365_.jpg

Walking Paris : Thirty Original Walks In and Around Paris by Gilles Desmons
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/0844201413.01._AA240_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg


Non-fiction Novels about France:

If you love France, you might also love these books:

Paris to the Moon by Adam Gopnik
http://ec1.images-amazon.com/images/P/0375758232.01._BO2,204,203,200_PIsitb-dp-500-arrow,TopRight,45,-64_AA240_SH20_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

From Here, You Can't See Paris : Seasons of a French Village and Its Restaurant by Michael S. Sanders
http://images.amazon.com/images/P/0060959207.01._BO2,204,203,200_PIlitb-dp-500-arrow,TopRight,32,-59_AA240_SH20_SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

[Rosebud]

From Food & Wine (Feb. 2006)

Paris: Where to Go Next? Five new restaurants that are brightening up the City of Light.

Fogon

At the restaurant's new address near the Pont Neuf, Alberto Herraiz finally has the decor to match his clever, modern Spanish food: purple banquettes with pillows that fit in the small of your back, a wavy white ceiling, blobby globe lights. You need to locate your table's secret drawer to find the flatware to eat Herraiz's exquisite tapas and larger dishes, including tuna confit with piquillo peppers served in a tuna can and squid-ink paella perched on a stand like a plateau de fruits de mer. Details: 45 Quai des Grands-Augustins, 6th Arr.; 011-33-1-43-54-31-33.

Restaurant Dominique Bouchet

He may have renounced the plaudits he earned at La Tour d'Argent (two Michelin stars) and most recently at Hôtel de Crillon (two more), to open this intimate restaurant, but Dominique Bouchet's ingredients and techniques are still flawless. In one of Paris's most beautiful, welcoming dining rooms (lacquered white ceiling, dark wood, stone walls and lots of orchids), he prepares dishes that seem almost too simple but are so unbelievably good that you feel as if you've never tasted them before: creamy cauliflower soup—no herbs, no croutons—and leg of lamb simmered for seven hours. Bouchet is opening a cooking school next door, due to launch in May. Details: 11 Rue Treilhard, 8th Arr.; 011-33-1-45-61- 09-46.

Senderens

For 28 years, Alain Senderens held three Michelin stars. Last year, the 66-year-old chef started fresh at Senderens, his casual restaurant on the Place de la Madeleine. In the Art Nouveau dining room, glass panels etched with glowing butterflies that change color stand in between the Majorelle wood paneling. Senderens is clearly having fun, sending out delicious Asian- and Mediterranean-accented dishes such as roasted lamb with curry, mango and lemongrass, and delicate ravioli stuffed with ricotta, chives and shallots in a buttery sage sauce. He's also rethought wine here, organizing the list by price and offering fantastic, provocative pairings—even with sherry and whiskey. The weak spot is the service, which is frenetic. Details: 9 Place de la Madeleine, 8th Arr.; 011-33-1-42-65-22-90.

Seafood spot - Gaya par Pierre Gagnaire

At this little fish place, wildly creative Michelin three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire has a chance to cook in an informal setting. You can order three-course meals or a single perfect dish, such as artichoke puree with tapioca and hazelnut-stuffed squid. The tiny kitchen also turns out desserts—like the Turinois, whipped cream layered with chocolate mousse and slightly salty praline—as sophisticated as those at Gagnaire's eponymous restaurant. Details: 44 Rue du Bac, 7th Arr.; 011-33-1-45-44-73-73.

Bistro update - Benoit

Alain Ducasse, the superchef behind Michelin three-star restaurants in Paris, Manhattan and Monte Carlo, is buying up France's most authentic bistros. His latest acquisition is Benoit, a 1912 landmark with a Michelin star near the Centre Pompidou. He hasn't changed a red velvet banquette or brass coat rack, but he has reinvigorated the menu of cuisine bourgeoise: langue de veau lucullus (tender slices of tongue with foie gras); scallops paired with capers, crisp croutons and shards of lemon zest confit; tiny frog's legs with black trumpet mushrooms in a pool of cream. The $45 prix fixe at lunch is a stunning bargain. Details: 20 Rue St. Martin, 4th Arr.; 011-33-1-42-72-25-76.

[Rosebud]

A recent Fodors trip review (with photos!) from Paris that may be interesting if you're planning a trip: April 2006 Paris Trip Review & Photos (http://gardkarlsen.com/Paris_France.htm)

Slowtrav.com trip review from Provence: Provence trip review (http://www.slowtrav.com/tr/tripreport.asp?tripid=947)

Slowtrav.com trip review from Paris and Normandy: Paris & Normandy trip review (http://www.slowtrav.com/tr/tripreport.asp?tripid=712)

A good article from the Los Angeles Times about France's Champagne region (free registration required): Champagne (http://www.latimes.com/travel/la-tr-champagne19sep19,1,3534363.story)

[HeatherFL]

We are spending a few weeks in Europe this October. Already been to Paris and we'd like to explore another region of France. Would someone please expand on places to visit in the Southeast of France? Any recommendations are greatly appreciated. We love wine, cheese and food so we're looking to implement this into our trip. It would be for about three days of the trip.

THANKS in advance!

~H.

[Rosebud]

HeatherFL- If you're interested in the Riviera, I think Nice might be a good option. It's a city, so you'll have tons of food and shopping options, plus beach access. Also, it's a quick trip into Monaco, where you can visit the casinos and very, very upscale atmosphere. I think you might enjoy that. The other good thing about Nice is that it's convenient to get in and out of, unlike some smaller towns in the area. It'll help you maximize your trip since you won't be in the region long.

If you're more interested in the Provence experience than the beaches, you might consider Aix en Provence. It's right on the TGV line, so it's convenient to Paris. You can easily drive around the area for a day or two to experience a bit more of the countryside.

There's a very nice Relais & Chateau hotel in Aix en Provence, La Villa Gallici (http://www.villagallici.com/). It looks divine!

For food in the region, I recommend checking out the message boards at Chowhound.com (http://www.chowhound.com) (which is totally devoted to restaurants) and Fodors.com (http://www.fodors.com). They have great restaurant recommendations and can point you towards the best spots.

[Rosebud]

You might also check Luxurylink.com for packages on unique properties in Provence (and the rest of the world). Here's some of their deals in southeast France:

Hostellerie de Crillon le Brave, Crillon-le-Brave, Provence, France
Hotel Package (http://luxurylink.com/fixedprice/fp_detail.php?id=133318&nav=)

Domaine de Valmouriane, St. Remy de Provence, France
Hotel Package (http://luxurylink.com/auctions/auc_detail.php?id=135092&nav=)

Le Meridien Nice, Nice, France
Hotel Package (http://luxurylink.com/fixedprice/fp_detail.php?id=123699&nav=)

Chateau de Massillan, Cote du Rhone, France
Hotel Package (http://luxurylink.com/fixedprice/fp_detail.php?id=125046&nav=)

Hostellerie Les Frenes, Avignon, France
Hotel Package (http://luxurylink.com/fixedprice/fp_detail.php?id=138120&nav=)

[HeatherFL]

Rosebud, OMG Relais & Chateau hotel looks BEAUTIFUL!!!! I don't even want to look around anymore. (I will, but WOW thank you. It looks soooo wonderful!)

~H.

[Rosebud]

From USA Today:

Off the beaten path

By Karen Fawcett and Sarah Gilbert Fox of www.bonjourparis.com, special for USATODAY.com

To some Europeans, stepping across town is a voyage. But most Americans don't think twice before making a trek that takes a couple of hours or more. That's why the day trips are ripe for the picking in France.

Home of the Sun King —The most famous castle in France (possibly all of Europe) is Château de Versailles, with its must-see mirror room (357 mirrors), the King's bedchambers, the Queen's house, the Grand Canal and its flanking forest (among other wonders). A mandatory pleasure is a walk in the surrounding park with splendid fountains and sculptures to see how the Sun King enjoyed his afternoons. Come early, because the queues are time-consuming. Admission is 7.5 euros (5.5 euros after 3:30 p.m.). Open from April-October, 9 a.m.-6:30 p.m. (5:30 p.m. the rest of the year). Take the 1½ hour trip on the RER C to Versailles Rive Gauche. Château de Versailles, 78000; 33 1 30 83 78 00; www.chateauversailles.fr/en

Fontainebleau, Napoléon's choice —Château de Fontainebleau is the non-touristy equivalent of Versailles and was the castle of choice for Louis XIV and Napoléon Bonaparte. Catch a 45-minute train from Gare de Lyon to Fontainebleau/Avon. A bus arrives at the station every 15 minutes to take you to the Château in the center of town. Tour the château, paddle around the lake, hike in the forest, catch a ride on the double-decker merry-go-round and then fall into bed at the pleasing Hôtel de Londres (1 place du Général de Gaulle, Fontainebleau, 77300; 33 1 64 22 20 21; www.hoteldelondres.com). Ask for a bedroom overlooking the famous stairs where Napoléon gave his flamboyant farewell to his Imperial Guards. The Chateau opens every day except for Tuesday; October through May from 9:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.; until 6 p.m. June through September. Admission is 5.5 euros. 33 1 60 71 50 70; www.musee-chateau-fontainebleau.fr.

France in a day —Save some extra time to visit Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines, which is 6¼ miles west of Versailles, and take the kids (or don't take any) to see France Miniature, the largest miniature park in Europe, with 150 landscapes of France, 140 of its finest monuments, and the highlights of Paris all laid out in 12 compact acres. Open April 3 to Nov. 7 from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; in July and August until 7 p.m. Your best bargain is to get a fixed price ticket from SNCF French railways, which will cover your train, bus and tickets to the park, as well as a France Miniature map. Cost: 11-19.50 euros. 25 route du Mesnil (boulevard André Malraux), 78990 Elancourt, Saint-Quentin-en-Yvelines; 33 1 30 16 16 30; www.franceminiature.com.

High gothic —Go to the Cathédrale Notre Dame de Chartres, built during the 12th and 13th century, to see the unreplicated "Chartres blue" (a mystical, light blue found in just some of the 176 stained-glass windows), the famed Rose Window that's positioned between the two uneven towers that rise majestically over the town (worth a visit) and the copper roof of the church. The stone floor labyrinth is walkable on Fridays — the one day when they push the chairs to the side. Open daily, and free of charge, but the North Tower costs 4.60 euros to climb (free for those under 18). To get to the cathedral, leave the Gare Montparnasse train station in the direction of Chartres. The trip costs 22.70 euros and can take up to 75 minutes. From there, obtain directions at the station for the 10-minute walk. Open every day -8:30 a.m.-7:30 p.m. Cloitre Notre Dame; 28000, Chartres; 33 2 37 18 26 26.

Candlelit Château —Château de Vaux Le Vicomte was opened in 1661 by Nicolas Fouquet (Louis XIV's finance minister) who shortly thereafter was jailed, at which point the design crew was sent to work on Versailles (which will give you some idea of how swank these gardens and castle are). The chateau once served as a haven for artists, sculptors, poets and writers, including Molière. The inside is lovely, but especially interesting is the Grande Cuisine (kitchen), prepped to prepare a meal for the king. Carriage rides take place all day through the garden, but are best on Saturdays when illuminated by 2,000 candles. Open daily March 27-Nov. 11, 10 a.m- 6 p.m. The chateau visit is 12 euros, the carriage ride is 7 euros, and the chateau/garden/carriage museum combo is 15 euros. Take the 30 minute RER D train at Chatelet métro to Melun, then 3 miles by taxi. 77950, Maincy; 33 1 64 14 41 90; www.vaux-le-vicomte.com. Candlelit Tour: www.magicaljourneys.com/France/tours-france-paris-candlelight.html.

[Rosebud]

From Travelswithfriends.com:

10 Best Sights in Paris: Here is our take on the 10 best sites or attractions in Paris, in alphabetical order. There are so many things that we love about Paris that we just had to make a limit. Other Sights (http://www.travelswithfriends.com/Destination_Paris-The_Other_Sights.htm) in Paris.

Arc de Triomphe
This Arch was commissioned by Napoléon to commemorate one of his victorious battles, although he never saw it completed. The arch was also made famous in photos as the Allied troops entered the heart of Paris. It sits in the middle of a traffic circle that has 12 streets including the Champs Elysées converging onto it. You reach the arch by an underground passageway, so don't try to cross the traffic! You can take an elevator or stairs to the top for wonderful views of Paris, and enjoy a museum about the arch.

Eiffel Tower
The tower was built as a temporary exhibit for the 1889 World's Fair. Now just over 100 years old it has become the symbol of Paris. While you see the tower from many places in Paris its size will amaze you as you approach. In all there are 7,000 tons of metal and the base covers nearly 3 acres. There are elevators to take you to the 1st (200 feet), 2nd (400 feet) and 3rd (900 feet) floors. The first level has a restaurant, exhibits and films about the tower as well as souvenirs. The second level offers great views of Paris and a snack bar, and the top level offers views as far away as 40 miles. Plan to arrive before 9:00am or in the evening to avoid the worst lines. At night the tower is lit. You can enjoy the tower from Parc du Champ-de-Mars, the adjoining park. Some of the best views are from the Tracedero, with it's canyon fountains and Art Deco statues.

Louvre Museum
This 16th Century Palace is the largest and most impressive museum in Europe and its most famous piece is the Mona Lisa. The museum is so large that of you spent one minute at each piece in the museum you would spend your entire life there. For those that don't have a lifetime we recommend one of the following. Pick up the free Louvre Handbook at the information desk as you enter the pyramid, join one of the 90 minute English tours ($6.00) which run 6 times a day except on Sunday, or rent an audio guide ($5.50), or purchase a museum guide book before your visit. The museum is busiest in the morning, on Sunday because of cheaper tickets, and Monday and Wednesday due to the closing day of Tuesday. If you are not a fan of museums, you can still enter the complex at the I.M Pei pyramid to explore the Carrousel du Louvre shops and then take a stroll in the adjoining Tuileries Gardens.

Luxembourg Gardens
This park is considered one of the most beautiful in Paris and is a favorite amongst Parisians. Spending time in one of Paris' many parks and cafés is simply the best way to enjoy this wonderful city and the Luxembourg Gardens is a gem. The park is filled with flowers, boxed trees, and the laughter of children. There is a pond where you can rent and play with a motorized remote control boat, and a children's play area. The Luxembourg Palace which looms over the park is the home of the French Parliament. After a morning of sight seeing, there is no better treat than to enjoy a peaceful afternoon in this park.

Montmartre
Montmatre is a neighborhood more than a sight, but well worth the visit. Take the funicular up to the Neo-Byzantine church (1870) which crowns the top of the hill and offers the second highest (next to the Eiffel Tower) view point in Paris. At one time there were 30 windmills on the hill but today the only two remaining are on rue Lepic. The area has long been a favorite for artists and Bohemians. The most famous, Toulouse Lautrec, produced posters of cabaret and café life in Paris in the early 1900's. The place du Tertre remains a hangout for artists trying to sell their works. Rue de Sauls leads to the only vineyard in Paris. Down the hill from Montmarte you'll find Pigalle, Paris' red light district, known derogatively as Pig Alley. The most popular club on the street is the touristy Moulin Rouge.

Musée d'Orsay
The current President of France, Jacques Chirac, was once the mayor of Paris. One of his greatest achievements as mayor was the conversion of the once abandoned Orsay train station into a world class museum. The building itself is a beautiful site and tribute to the great rail stations of Europe. Upon entering, climb to the top of the staircase and look back to envision trains entering and exiting the station. Now you can start your visit on the top floor and work your way down. The museum is most famous for its Impressionist works including those by Monet, Renoir and van Gogh, just to name a few. There is also a wonderful Art Nouveau section. Finally the café is a nice place for a light lunch, offering views of the Right Bank through the station's giant clock.

Notre Dame
This cathedral is a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. Construction began on the building in 1163 but it took 5 architects and almost 100 years to complete. The statues on the front portal date back to 1170. One of the highlights is the rose window, nearly 40 feet wide, that depicts the life of the Virgin Mary. The original building had small windows but around 1220 the flying buttresses were added. These outdoor columns take on the weight of the walls allowing for stained glass windows that are nearly floor to ceiling. The buttresses also serve as rain gutters. During the French Revolution much of the church was damaged including the removal of the heads from the Gallery of Kings statues. When Napéleon was crowned here in 1804 the walls were in such bad condition that they had to be covered with tapestries. In 1831 author Victor Hugo wrote the book Notre-Dame de Paris and started a fever to return this jewel to its former glory. For wonderful views of Paris set amongst gargoyles, climb the 400 steps to the top of the bell tower.

Place des Vosges
This is the second park to make our 10 favorites in Paris. The park fills a square surrounded by 36 brick and stone townhouses, 9 on each side. House Number six was the home of Victor Hugo. Henry IV built the square in the Marais as a place for royalty, today it is one of the most exclusive, yet working class, neighborhoods in Paris. The trees that line the park make a great retreat on a warm day, a perfect spot for an afternoon picnic. Children playing in sandboxes, nannies with baby carriages, and lovers kissing on park benches, this is Paris at its finest!

Sainte Chapelle
King Louis IX had this Gothic chapel built in 1242 to house his newest purchase, the Crown of Thorns, the relic supposedly worn by Christ during his crucifixion. What makes this chapel different than many other Gothic churches is the fact that it was built in only 6 years and under the direction of one architect. The result is a unity in construction styles. The main floor or basement is where the average citizen was allowed to come and worship. The upper floor was for the royalty. But none of this information can convey to you the beauty of its stained glass windows located in the upper floor. The windows cover an area of over 6,500 square feet. The result is a feeling of being surrounded by jewels as you witness an impressive light show on a sunny day. Many evenings there are classical concerts ($30) held here. Today the Crown of Thorns is kept in the treasury at Notre Dame.

Seine Cruise
This is a wonderful way to see Paris. Sitting on the deck of a boat as it cruises along the Seine River. There are several companies offering these one hour cruises. Our favorite is Les Vedettes de Pont-Neuf. This company uses slightly smaller boats than the others and has a human being telling you about the major sites in both French and English. Other companies offer a loud speaker recording in about 5 languages. The prices are a bit higher than others but well worth it. The best time to enjoy one of these cruises is after dark when Paris can be seen in its lighted glory!

Day Trip from Paris- Join an organized day trip from Paris to visit Chartres, Giverny, the Loire Valley, Mont St Michel, Normandy and the D-day Beaches, Reims and the Champagne Region or Versailles. More Info on Day Trips (http://www.travelswithfriends.com/Sightseeing_in_Paris.htm)

[tlew12778]

I just got back from a week on the riviera. It's only 3 hours from me so it's a easy weekend trip for us. The first time we did Menton to Nice in 3 days. We stayed in Eze (at this B&B (http://www.puisatier.com/uk/navigation.htm)). The second time, we did the beaches from Nice to Saint Raphael (never made it to St. Tropez). I have to say... the next time we'll be staying in Nice. Cannes was a total nightmare traffic-wise (we stayed in Theoule). Nice is great bc you can basically walk the entire city if you have to and/or are willing. It offfers great restaurants too. The one thing you should be aware of though, is that the restaurants in the smaller cities basically shut down my 9PM. You need to be eating by 8-8:30. Also, they are pricey. You can't even eat at a bad pizzeria for less than 25 euro a person. For decent food you should expect to spend closer to 70 euro for 2. I also highly recommend going the B&B route -- finding a croissant and an espresso in the same place in the morning was a chore for us. We always had to get espresso at the cafe then a croissant at the bakery. It was really weird for us since having a croissant and an espresso is the favorite passtime of Italians.

I do recommend having a car though. I would imagine the smaller towns are harder to get to and from if you are relying on the train.

[Rosebud]

tlew12778-- I just looked at the photos of the B&B where you stayed in Eze and it is GORGEOUS!! I definitely want to stay there when we eventually make it to the south of France. Thanks for the tip! :)

[tlew12778]

Yeah and the great thing (other than the price - it's a steal at 110 euro!) is that it's not on most of the travel websites. I only found out about them bc I tried to book a room at La Bastide aux Camélias. The owners of the latter are friends of the owners of the one I stayed at and sent me to them. Otherwise we'd never have found it. I have to say, the service is absolutely FANTASTIC. The only drawback is that you need a car bc it's actually above the village of Eze and I don't think there is a regular bus service (although I read that some people have done it).

[olive]

My husband and I just returned from a 10 day trip to France. We loved Paris for all of the reasons expressed in this thread -- it is romantic, beautiful, elegant and there is so much to see a do! I found the French people to be polite and very nice. We asked for directions on a daily basis and we don't speak french at all. we would just ask in crude french if they speak english and they almost always responded yes! Even if they didn't they helped with pointing us in the right direction on our city map.

We also spent sometime in Provence. We took the train from Paris to Avignon which was painless and picked up a car in Avignon. We stayed in a small bed and breakfast right outside of Avignon called Auberge de Cassagne. This inn was so relaxing that we didn't want to leave.

We also spent a few days in Nice which I highly recommend. We did take a day trip to Cannes which I didn't really like because I didn't think it was very charming and was definitely traffic ridden but this was the end of July so I am sure there will not be as many people in Cannes as there was this time of year.

We also went to Eze, Monaco and Villefranche sur Mer. Which were beautiful. However, I really thought Nice was marvelous and if I ever return I hope to rent a flat for the week instead of staying in a hotel.

Good luck planning your trip (that's half the fun!) and enjoy your vacation!

Olive

[designer]

bumping!

[sue-bert]

How about the Paris Sewer Museum?
http://europeforvisitors.com/paris/articles/paris-sewers-museum.htm

Or the catacombs under the city? (I've been here and it's actually quite fascinating).
http://itotd.com/articles/206/paris-catacombs/

ETA: Oops, I just saw that mom to zoe already suggested the catacombs. In that case, I second her suggestion. :)

[Rosebud]

I know I've posted this link in other threads, so I apologize for being repetitive.... but here's the link to my Paris trip review from last year. It was my third time in Paris so we did lots of not-so-touristy stuff this time (including the catacombs and sewer tour). Review and photos here:

Paris Honeymoon Review (http://www.constantchatter.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10130)

If it's your first time in Paris, you really should do the touristy stuff-- go see Sacre Coeur, the Eiffel Tour, Notre Dame, etc. Just because they're popular doesn't mean they're not awesome. Once you've done all of that stuff, there are lots of off the beaten path things to do. I love just wandering the Left Bank, sitting in cafes, going to Farmers' Markets, checking out cemeteries, finding lesser known churches, having picnics in the Luxembourg Gardens... the possibilities are endless!

[Rosebud]

I was thinking about it and there are a few specific things I can recommend from previous Paris trips that aren't covered in my honeymoon review.

Bird Market (http://www.atkielski.com/inlink.php?/PhotoGallery/Paris/General/BirdMarketSmall.html)
Ile de la Cite
On Sundays, this market converts for the day to a bird market, at which all manner of pet birds and supplies for keeping and feeding them can be purchased.
Lots more markets: Info (http://www.parisinfo.com/guide_paris/rub5958.html)

Eglise Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis (http://www.insecula.com/salle/MS01296.html)
99, rue Saint-Antoine
This was also the parish church of Victor Hugo who baptized his daughters here. Delacroix's Christ's Agony in the Garden of Olives is one of the magnificent paintings honored here.

Cafe des Deux Moulins (http://www.frommers.com/destinations/paris/D54508.html)
15 rue Lepic
If you've seen the movie "Amelie" (and if you haven't, see it immediately! :) ), this is the cafe where Amelie works. It looks the same as in the movie, inside and out. It's more touristy these days, but still gets relatively little traffic, for Paris.

Notre Dame de la Médaille Miraculeuse (http://www.chapellenotredamedelamedaillemiraculeuse.com/EN/A.ASP)
140 rue du Bac
Didn't make it here on my last trip, but hope to next time as it sounds different and interesting: Frommer's Irreverent Paris calls it an "Out-of-the-ordinary religious experience" and it sure is. Inside is a nun who is perfectly preserved under glass, laid out in the open for all to see, rather like Lenin! Only people pray to her in the hopes of being granted an audience with God. She is Catherine Laboure who had a vision in 1830 of the Virgin Mary and for which she has since been beatified by the church.

Abesses Metro Station Murals (http://www.worldserver.com/turk/quicktimevr/AbessesAscend.html)
If you take the Metro to Montmartre and exit at the Abesses stop, you'll find a LONG staircase leading from the tunnel up to the street. All along the walls of the stairwell are vibrant and unusual murals. It's really a cool sight. When you exit onto the street there's a little garden right in front of you that contains a wall (http://www.lesjetaime.com/english/index.html) where "I love you" is written a bunch of times. I really enjoyed this area!

Montparnasse Cemetery (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cimeti%C3%A8re_du_Montparnasse)
I think I did write about this in my trip review, but just in case.... this is a really beautiful cemetery. There are plenty of famous folks buried here, but I was most intrigued by the elaborate, above ground graves and lovely landscaping.

Also, here's a good list of off-the-beaten-path sights in Paris, many of them locations found in movies or homes of famous authors. LINK (http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/5dc15/18308/6/?o=1&i=0)

Unusual musuems in Paris: LINK (http://www.travelsignposts.com/Paris/paris_museumsunusual.php)

[Sami]

I have a general question about travel from Paris to Belgium. I am going to be in Paris for a conference, and I would like to also visit Brussels and Brugge. Is there a direct train from Paris to Brussels? What about a direct train from Paris to Brugge? Which would be the easier city to get to first? Thanks. :)

[Rosebud]

I have a general question about travel from Paris to Belgium. I am going to be in Paris for a conference, and I would like to also visit Brussels and Brugge. Is there a direct train from Paris to Brussels? What about a direct train from Paris to Brugge? Which would be the easier city to get to first? Thanks. :)

We did this last October. Trains to Belgium depart all day long from Gare du Nord. We took the high speed Thalys train from Paris to Brussels (it took about 1.5 hours, as I recall). You then connect to a short train (15-20 minutes?) to Brugge. It was a quick and convenient trip. Here is the Thalys website (http://www.thalys.com/fr/en/).

We stayed only an afternoon in Brussels and just walked around the Grote Markt/Grand Place. I would recommend spending more time in Brugge, which is really incredible and unique. We stayed two days there and would have liked to be there even longer. My photos and a complete review from both Brussels and Brugge can be found HERE (http://www.constantchatter.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10130).

[Rosebud]

There's was an interesting article in today's L.A. Times about the changing nature of Paris restaurants, and how much more accessible and flexible they are these days. It's a LONG but great article. Read the Article HERE (http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-critic29nov29,1,5567257.story?coll=la-headlines-food)

I'm posting some of the bits that are recommendations of specific restaurants, in case anyone is looking for tips:

Le Villaret
A friend who loves wine told me about Le Villaret, a small bistro with stone and half-timbered walls in the the 11th arrondissement, Paris' equivalent to Silver Lake. Chef Olivier Gaslain's clean, updated bistro fare starts with first courses such as warm salad of diced potato and big blond sea snails in aioli, a fricassee of violet artichokes and black chanterelles and a lovely mushroom mousse perfumed with foie gras. But my favorite is l'oeuf au plat — fried egg, the yolk still soft, with girolles (wild mushrooms), artichokes and parsley. Happily, it's all perfectly attuned to wine... Le Villaret's list has an astonishing choice of Burgundies and Rhônes at what are, for Paris, or anywhere in France, very reasonable prices.
Le Villaret. 13, rue Ternaux (Métro: Parmentier). Phone (from the U.S.): 011-33-1-4357-8976; fax: 011-33-1-4357 -8969. Closed Saturday lunch and all day Sunday and August. Serves until 12 a.m. weekdays, 1 a.m. Saturday.


La Table de Rubuchon
La Table de Robuchon, legendary chef Joël Robuchon's 2 1/2 -year-old spot, may have two Michelin stars, but it doesn't feel anything like any two-star restaurant I've been to before. Instead of linens, each place is set with a round placemat. Water bottles are set down on a square of paper. The décor is vaguely Asian, which makes the bare wood tabletops seem somehow less shocking. But it's an elegant boîte (in the tony 16th arrondissement) with gold-leafed walls and dark wood shutters. Service from a multiethnic wait staff is crisp but relaxed, some of the best I've had anywhere. And hurray, it's open on Sundays.
La Table de Robuchon. 16, Avenue Bugeaud (Métro: Victor Hugo). Phone (from the U.S.): 011-33-1- 5628-1616; fax: 011-33-1-5628-1678. Open daily for lunch and dinner.


Gaya
Pierre Gagnaire, arguably the most inventive chef of his generation, recently bought the venerable left bank fish restaurant Gaya, a favorite of the publishing industry. A meal at this diminutive two-story place with one Michelin star is pure pleasure. The upstairs dining room is painted a seaworthy blue. Tabletops of some kind of fiberglass or resin, sans linen, are printed with images of kelp. The menu is just one page, as is the savvy wine list. I'm won over by the silken velouté of crab poured over basmati rice molded into a baby block-sized cube.
Gaya Rive Gauche. 44, rue du Bac (Métro: Rue du Bac). Phone and fax (from the U.S.): 011-33-1-4544-7373. Closed Saturday lunch, all day Sunday and August.

Pinxo
Pinxo, an informal contemporary restaurant a short stroll away from the Louvre and the newly re-opened Musée des Arts Décoratifs, is perfect for lunch. Here, two-star chef Alain Dutournier (Carré des Feuillants) weighs in with a menu of light, smaller plates with a Spanish and Basque accent. Tables are black lacquer and bare, and you can eat one plate or three or four. A half portion of "crunchy" salad is just fabulous, Little Gem lettuce with sliced mushrooms, fennel, cracked pepper and fleur de sel.
Pinxo. Hotel Renaissance Paris Vendôme, Plaza Paris Vendôme, 9, rue d'Alger (Métro: Tuileries). Phone (from the U.S.): 011-33-1-4020-7200; fax: 011-33-1-4020-7202. Closed August.

Benoit
Benoît, a bistro near Hotel de Ville that dates back to 1912, is now owned by über-chef Alain Ducasse, who has a slew of restaurants all over the world, including three-star Louis XV in Monaco, Plaza Athénée Restaurant in Paris and Essex House in New York. For me, along with the much funkier L'Ami Louis, Benoît is the quintessential Paris bistro. With lace curtains at the windows and a collection of porcelain and antique water bottles, it very much looks the part from the street. But then the door opens onto a vision of polished brass, red velvet banquettes and waiters in formal black leaning over tables to serve cassoulet or veal daube from a cart.
Benoît. 20, rue St. Martin (Métro: Chatelet). Phone (from the U.S.): 011-33-1-4272-2576; fax: 011-33-1-4272 -4568; e-mail: restaurant.benoit @wanadoo.fr. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Closed August.


Le Comptoir
Le Comptoir, the new bistro from Yves Camdeborde, who used to be the chef-owner of La Régalade, another of my all-time favorites, is a tough reservation. I made one for three people a couple of months in advance, and kept calling to see if I could possibly extend the table to four. Each time, after checking the books, the voice on the phone always said "non." When we arrive, I see why. Our table for three is actually a corner deuce with the third person (me) crammed between a pillar and the step down to the sidewalk terrace. Inside, the place is adorably funky. Painted a pale ochre and retaining most of the original fixtures, it's a wonderful anomaly in the midst of the upscale 6th arrondissement. Set at each place is a postcard detailing the night's single prix fixe menu at 42 euros (about $54). There are no choices, and nothing a la carte. We start with a delicate crabmeat mixture that fills three miniature crab carapaces. Then a wonderful confit of pressed pear and foie gras set off by the salty pungency of bleu d'Auvergne cheese. The main is a trio of beautiful rosy little lamb chops roasted with thyme and served with a ragout of pigs' ears and autumn root vegetables. It looks so pretty on the plate that it turns heads as people rush by on the sidewalk in front.
Le Comptoir. Hotel Rélais Saint-Germain, 9, Carrefour de l'Odéon (Métro: Odéon). Phone (from the U.S.): 011-33-1-4329-1205; fax: 011-33-1-4633-4530. Open for lunch and dinner daily; dinner Monday through Friday is a 42-euro prix fixe menu, by reservation only. Menu is a la carte; no reservations are taken for lunch Monday through Friday and for lunch or dinner Saturday and Sunday.

[Rosebud]

Saw this on CNN and thought I'd repost for anyone looking for a great baguette in Paris:

Picky and proud of it: Paris' top baguettes

Believe it or not, the humble baguette was headed for extinction not long ago. In the 1960s, boulangeries scrapped old-style methods in favor of industrialized baking, and the bread lost its flavor.

But the French came to their senses by 1998. It's now against the law for a boulangerie to make bread by machine (it must be mixed and baked on-site) and good loaves are once again on the rise. In Paris, there's even a Grand Prix de la Baguette to name the best of the year. (Budget Travel's Paris Snap Guide)

At most boulangeries, the least expensive baguette (often referred to as "ordinaire" and costing less than a euro) will not reflect the full talents of the baker. Spring for a baguette "traditionelle" or any of the house's other special loaves. Here are five places to get the very best.

A block west of the Jardins du Luxembourg, Bread & Roses is well-known for its celeb clientele. (Among the frequent customers are actress Catherine Deneuve and designer Inès de la Fressange.) But the nearly two-year-old organic boulangerie is also making a name for itself with its Puissance Dix baguette ($2). Literally translated, the name means "the power of 10," a reference to the 10 flours -- including chestnut, buckwheat, corn and rye --incorporated into the dough. 7 rue de Fleurus, 6th arr., 011-33/1-42-22-06-06. Métro: Notre-Dame-des-Champs.

In the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, Le Quartier du Pain turns out eight different kinds of baguettes -- some flavored with olives, herbs or bacon -- six days a week (closed Sundays). In 1997, master baker Frédéric Lalos ---just 26 at the time -- was named one of the best bakers in France. Before Lalos mixes sunflower, flax and sesame seeds into the dough for his Baguette Céréale ($2), he toasts them, to bring out maximum flavor. 74 rue Saint-Charles, 15th arr., 011-33/1-45-78-87-23. Métro: Charles-Michels.

At Le Moulin de la Vierge, a boulangerie housed in a mill built in 1356, Basile Kamir bakes his baguettes in an antique wood-burning oven out back. In 1975, when he bought the place, Kamir introduced his clients to sourdough, a leavening agent now used in an organic wheat baguette called the Flute Bio ($1.75). It's the perfect foil for the artisanal fig, raspberry and clementine jams from Burgundy ($6.25) that are also sold on the premises. 105 rue Vercingétorix, 14th arr., 011-33/1-45-43-09-84. Métro: Pernety.

Anis Bouabsa took over Au Duc de la Chapelle in 2005, and at 27, he's already placed in the Grand Prix de la Baguette. One taste of his Baguette Tzara ($1.25) is an indication why. He doesn't use a levain (sourdough starter), so there's a sweet rather than sour taste, and his dough is kneaded entirely by hand. The result: bread that's light, airy and moist, with a crust that tastes faintly of caramel. 32-34 rue Tristan Tzara, 18th arr., 011-33/1-40-38-18-98. Métro: Marx Dormoy.

The whole-wheat La Monge baguette ($1.25) is the most popular loaf at Eric Kayser, a chain of boulangeries with eight locations in Paris, including the original on rue Monge. The baguette takes 12 hours to produce and uses a secret blend of flours. The La Monge can be found on some of Paris's top tables, including upscale bistro Dominique Bouchet. 8 rue Monge, 5th arr., 011-33/1-44-07-01-42. Métro: Maubert-Mutualité.

[constance]

DH & I will be in Paris Jan 1-8. Are there any holiday inspired things that will still be on display(store windows of Haussman etc.)? Last year I was there around Christmas and there were white lights and a ferris wheel at Jardin des Tuileries (by the Louvre). It looks like Versailles and the Louvre are open..Are many things still closed for the holiday from 1/1-8? All responses are greatly appreciated. Thank you!

[Rosebud]

Just dropping off an article from the L.A. Times this weekend about shopping in Paris. It's got a long list of special places to shop in the city.

A Parisian Present... Pour Moi? (http://www.latimes.com/travel/la-tr-parisshopping17dec17,1,4070322.story?coll=la-travel-headlines)

Also, in the same issue of the Times, there was a letter from a reader recommending a French B&B:

A magical stay in a chateau deep in France was very affordable at Chateau de Siorac, a B&B that dates to 1550. Luxurious suites and modern bathrooms gracefully installed in the turrets make for a fanciful and exotic stop. Owners Jose and Diana Garcia have a fabulous way with breakfast. The surrounding area is fulled with cave dwellings and lush river valleys in a charming region of France. Doubles from $140.

Chateau De Siorac (http://www.chateaudesiorac.com/home.html), Annessee et Beaulieu, France 24430; 011-33-62-526-3581

http://www.chateaudesiorac.com/obj299geo207pg7p5.jpg http://www.chateaudesiorac.com/obj124geo125pg7p5.jpg http://www.chateaudesiorac.com/obj121geo121pg7p5.jpg

[Rosebud]

DH & I will be in Paris Jan 1-8. Are there any holiday inspired things that will still be on display(store windows of Haussman etc.)? Last year I was there around Christmas and there were white lights and a ferris wheel at Jardin des Tuileries (by the Louvre). It looks like Versailles and the Louvre are open..Are many things still closed for the holiday from 1/1-8? All responses are greatly appreciated. Thank you!

I haven't been there at that time of year, but I just checked the Fodors.com message boards really quick and found this post about Christmas decorations in Paris. Hope this helps!

People often want to know if they are going to see the Christmas decorations in Paris when their trip is not exactly at Christmas.

Here are the dates for various things this year :

The Champs Elysées will be illuminated from 24 November 2006 to 31 January 2007.

Twenty market streets throughout Paris will be illuminated from 1 December 2006 to 17 January 2007.

Rue Lepic from 1 December 2006 to 17 January 2007.

Place Vendôme, rue de la Paix, rue de Castiglione from 30 November 2006 to 8 January 2007.

Avenue Montaigne & rue Saint Honoré from 24 November 2006 to 7 January 2007.

Bon Marché department store from 17 November 2006 to 31 December 2006.

Galeries Lafayette & Printemps department stores from 2 November 2006 to 31 December 2006.

Skating rink at Hôtel de Ville from 2 December 2006 to 4 March 2007.

Skating rink at Montparnasse from 2 December 2006 to 4 March 2007.

Christmas markets at various dates at Maison de l'Alsace (Champs Elysées), La Défense, Place de la Nation, Place Saint Sulpice, Place Saint Germain-des-Prés, and (subject to the advancement of the renovation works for the TGV-Est) Gare de l'Est.

[constance]

That's exactly what I was looking for. Thank you, Rosebud03!

[meatpie]

Anyone done France/Paris with a small child??? We are considering it in a few months...

[Rosebud]

Meatpie- I don't have kids, so I can't help from personal experience, but I saw a good list of things to do in Paris with kids on TripAdvisor and just wanted to pass it along:

Inside Paris: Paris with Small Children (http://www.tripadvisor.com/Travel-g187147-c1076/Paris:France:Paris.With.Small.Children.html)

A friend of mine is currently living in Paris with her 2 year old son and she's successfully taken him on several mini-vacations around France. She says he particularly enjoyed Normandy for running on the beach and the Loire Valley for the castles. :)

Good luck!

[meatpie]

Thanks, Rosebud. Airfare is coming in at a whopping $1,000 per so I'm not sure what we'll do now...

Oh to dream to see Paris before I am 40!

[tlew12778]

Go in off-season. Fares drop after Sept 2 until xmas, then again right after New Years until Easter more or less. If you look too early you will find full fares. Also, remember that European vacation in the summer (mainly August) so prices go up bc of that as well.

[Rosebud]

WOW-- that's really high. I think the most I've ever paid from L.A. to Paris is $780. In Spring it should be less than that.

I just poked around on the Air France website and if you select that you're flexible about dates, it'll show you how much the fare is for several weeks around when you'd like to fly. I picked out some cheaper days and just as an example, you could depart March 30 and return April 10th for about $800 per person. Still not a bargain, but better than $1000. I'll let you know if I see any specials out there!

[meatpie]

Thanks. We are somewhat flexible on dates but only have a two-week window to travel as my school is on spring break then. I guess I didn't expect it to be so high because I thought it would be "off-season" in March-April.

[tlew12778]

Travelocity also does a month-long flex search but with all the airlines. You can just click on the dates that are ok for you and see what you get.

[mrsj]

Anyone done France/Paris with a small child??? We are considering it in a few months...

We live in France and find that traveling here is really easy. The French love children and they will coo over them where ever you go, except restaurants...that can be tricky. We eat out with DD a little bit, but it can be really difficult sometimes. We were just in Lyon for the festival of lights and they were really rude to us at the pizzaria where we went. That said, I think it was an isolated incident.

[meatpie]

We are going. Booking (really $$$) flights tonight!! (Damn Air France and making us spend $500 for a seat for our 13-month-old son) We have a starwood hotel employee in the family so we are staying in Paris at Le Meridien for $140 a night. We are now looking for an apartment/B&B in Avignon for the first leg of our 8-day trip!!

Can't wait...I can't believe we pulled the trigger and are going. We've been talking about this trip since I was 3 months pregnant. Yippee!!

[Rosebud]

meatpie-- YAY!! I'm so glad you're going! Have a wonderful time planning your trip. :)

[meatpie]

Thanks, Rosebud. We have been talking about this trip for YEARS and I am so excited. :D (Did you see The Office last night - oh my it was so good!!)

General thoughts anyone - Provence (Avignon specifically) or the Burgundy area for 3-4 days?? We want to find a cute apartment or B&B and dig in for a few days. Maybe hire a car and take a day trip, but mostly be in a village/town/city to walk, take in a few markets, relax.

Mrsj You would not know of a babysitter in Paris, would you? I have a few leads through the school I work at, just want options. We are thinking about taking in the opera one night in Paris.

[mrsj]

meatpie - Sorry, I don't know anyone. I actually do not have a babysitter :) I am too nervous about leaving DD with someone.

[EJM]

meatpie: I cannot remember the exact dates, but check when Provence gets The Mistral. There is a childrens song about the bridge in Avignon and DH wanted to go out and dance on the end of the bridge and take photos, darn wind about blew us right away -- I think it was late February. We actually have a photo of us with my hair blowing directly out to the side of my head. :D It is a really great town to visit and explore but the weather was cold.

[Rosebud]

Meatpie- This B&B is right in Avignon and gets good reviews on TripAdvisor.com. It looks nice!

Maison Lumani (http://www.avignon-lumani.com/html_us/accueil.htm)

One of my bosses vacations in Provence every year and two of her favorite places to go are Gordes and Roussillon. Rousillon has beautiful red hills-- really pretty and unique. There's also Arles, which has some Roman ruins. Arles is southwest of Avignon. Gordes and Roussillon are to the east of Avignon.

Gordes
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k284/rosebud03_2006/gordes.jpg

Arles
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k284/rosebud03_2006/arles-1.jpg

Roussillon
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k284/rosebud03_2006/roussillon2.jpg

[EJM]

Arles is a good suggestion (we did Avignon, Arles, and Nimes), especially if you are at all interested in Van Gogh. He did a lot of his work in/around Arles, and the town has lots of self directed walking tours. They are various colored routes which are all outside and great with a little one I would think. It took DH and I two days to do them all. Again we were there in late February. Arles is a very tourist centered town, there is a large photography (?) festival each year. We got a GREAT deal on a hotel (we just walked to one and booked the room) since it was off-season. The only issue we had was finding an open restaurant, at that point in our lives DH and I were using Let's Go and every place it recomended was not yet open for the season. It was more of a dinner problem really.

[justHB]

Initially, I was hoping to visit London around Christmas/New Years, but it looks like for a slew of reasons, Paris is more than likely where we'll end up. I'm thinking 7 days in Paris and then 3 in the Loire Valley or other area. I'm also getting a lot of recommendations for Avignon; both seem to be recommended here. Thankfully, I have plenty of time to investigate all options. I'll be checking out all of the Paris/France threads here and likely relying on you ladies for feedback as we get more into the planning stages.

[vancouvergirl]

We are most likely traveling to Provence this September with our 3 children as part of a Paris/Provence/Tuscany adventure. Considering I'd like to stay in only one place and skip the Riviera this time around, where should we go? Nice? Avignon? We will not have a car but will be relying on the train.

[tlew12778]

Nice is on the Riviera. But if you don't have a car and have never been, it's a great place to visit. You can walk everywhere. It's also only 4 hours on the train to Milan which will be your gateway city to Italy in all likelihood.

[designer]

I highly recommend Arles - it's such a cute town, and was my favorite city in France. Also went to Avigon -the market there was really neat-it's only on Sunday I think - although pretty crowded, so hang onto your belongings!

[vancouvergirl]

Nice is on the Riviera. But if you don't have a car and have never been, it's a great place to visit. You can walk everywhere. It's also only 4 hours on the train to Milan which will be your gateway city to Italy in all likelihood.

True about Nice! I must separate it out in my mind from what I assume are the more posh hot spots. What is Nice like? It is quaint, is it bustling? Is there a hospital there? Would you advise it as our one stop in Provence? Glad to hear it is a walkable town.

We should be taking the train into Milan and on to Florence.

Thanks!

[tlew12778]

It's a small city. It's actually one of our favorite cities to visit on the weekend as it only takes us 3 hours to get to by car. There is an old town that is entirely pedestrian (very quaint) and a newer part of town that has great shopping. They have a hospital as it's the main city for the entire Riviera (the next one is Cannes which is no longer the Riviera). There is a fantastic beach (big rocks... good for crawling babies as there is no sad to go in the mouth or diaper). I am absolutely sure you could do day tours from there to places like Eze and Monte Carlo. The good thing about Nice is that you could spend 2-3 days there and not get bored. I cannot imagine spending 2-3 days in one small village.

[vancouvergirl]

tlew12778, Thanks for walking me through this. ;) I feel like I'm more focused now and hopefully a little more knowledgable after some additional research. Looks like we will go Paris-Nice-Sienna for almost 3 weeks. It's all very exciting and I love this thread!

meatpie, How is the planning? We went to Paris in 2003 when our daughter was almost 4. We found it quite easy to travel there with her. You'll have to ride some of the many splendid carousels!

[tlew12778]

Sienna is really small. You can see the entire town in half a day. However, if you rent a car, it is close to a lot of great towns. Also, are you bringing your kids? BC Sienna (at least the historical center part) is going to be a PITA with a stroller. It's basically a bowl with the Piazza del Campo in the middle, so all uphill or downhill. It's all cobblestone too.

[meatpie]

tlew12778, Thanks for walking me through this. ;) I feel like I'm more focused now and hopefully a little more knowledgable after some additional research. Looks like we will go Paris-Nice-Sienna for almost 3 weeks. It's all very exciting and I love this thread!

meatpie, How is the planning? We went to Paris in 2003 when our daughter was almost 4. We found it quite easy to travel there with her. You'll have to ride some of the many splendid carousels!

It's great. We booked our train tickets this am to Avignon, have a hotel in Paris, now just need an apartment in Avignon (I have a few leads). I am SO excited!!! We'll see about the carousels as Jack is only 13 months old then!!