Going to Italy!! Need suggestions!

[jrsygirl]

I would love suggestions on what your favorite places to see / things to do/ restaurants/ hotels:

We're going to:
Rome
Venice
CinqueTerre
Florence

we might to side day trips places so suggestions are welcome!!

[emmjay]

I don't know what your budget is like, but if you need a nice, reasonably priced hotel in Venice I highly recommend this pensione: La Calcina (http://www.lacalcina.com/) . It's really cute, very professional and helpful staff, has an awesome breakfast every morning, and it's walking distance to everything. And it's less than 150 euros for a double, depending on the season.

[krbb]

In Rome we stayed at a hotel called Hotel Smeraldo (http://www.smeraldoroma.com/about.htm) . It was in a convinient area a close walk to the Pantheon. We followed Rick Steve's books when we were there to find out hotels. Here is a picture of the room:

http://www.buten.com/photos/europe/rome55.jpg

The bathroom was a nice size for European standards. It had a toilet, bidet, shower, and a/c (which the front desk controlled). I forget what we paid (I think it was less than 100euros), but you get a discount if you pay in cash. The room had a TV.

If we had more time in Rome we would have done a day trip to Pompeii. We saw the main highlights of Rome. The colosseum, forum, and Vatican. Also did several walking tours.

In Venice we stayed at a smaller place, it was kind of like a bed and breakfast, but no breakfast. It was called Allogi all Scalla. It is by these famous stairs, which tour groups stop at. It was again a Rick Steves find. The room was nice though basic no TV and an interesting bathroom.

Here is a picture of the room, ignore the unmade bed we were on our way out:

http://www.buten.com/photos/europe/venice32.jpg

If you plan to go to the museums I would recommend Rick Steves Mona Winks Book. It will guide you through the museums though written in a light manner.

In Venice try one of the bars that serves appetizers, I know I am spelling it wrong but called conchiti or something like that. You can try some wine and point to some of the food for an interesting meal. Also in Venice we just liked to sit in St. Mark's square at night on the steps and listen to the bands at the several outdoor cafes. They charge for a table, but you can sit close by for free.

You can check out many more of our pictures here (http://www.buten.com/photos/europe/) . I am sure you will have a great time! When are you going?

[laura]

We just went to Italy about a month ago. We went to Rome, Venice, and we spent a week on the Amalfi Coast. Our hotel in Venice sucked, but our Rome hotels were progressively nicer. The first one was Hotel Canova, and the second one (nicer, but more expensive) was near the Piazza de Spagna and it was called Hotel San Carlo. I really recommend getting a hotel with AC in Venice b/c you will be eaten alive by mosquitos otherwise.

ETA: On food: We were hardpressed to find a bad meal in Rome - breakfast, lunch or dinner. Even restaurants that looked like the biggest dives (and would be here in the US) had fantastic homemade food and great local wines. Venice - not so much. Fill up on sandwiches at lunch b/c the pasta is like Chef Boy Ardee, I swear. Even the pizza is "eh".

[tlew12778]

Here's a link (http://www.b-b.rm.it/index.php?PHPSESSID=6449cdb9679c866d2db6139d899b53 ba) for B&B's in Rome. I haven't used them but a friend of mine works for the FAO/WFP there and that is the link they use for their consultants.

As for Cinque Terre, try to find a place in the 5 terre. We stayed in Levanto which was ok, but you can stay in the 5 lands and pay the same or even less than either Levanto or La Spezia. There are A LOT of places that work as B&Bs that don't advertise anywhere. You can just go there, knock on the door and check out the place. I have heard that Porto Venere is really spectacular. You can't get there by train though so you either need a car or you can take the ferry from Monterosso.

[BethS0103]

I know a few of the girls have mentioned Rick Steves, but I'm going to bring his name up again and tell you to get his guide to Italy if you haven't already because it will literally be your best friend throughout the entire trip. I don't know what we would've done in Italy if we didn't have good ol' Rick with us. ;)

[Becki1010]

We just went in January for our honeymoon and it was really nice!

LOL- we lived off of our Rick Steeve's book! We could not have gotten along in Italy without it! We used the one that was just called 'Italy.' It gave us all the phrases and everything!
AND in all our travels through Italy- we spotted him! It was hilarious! We were at the Leaning Tower of Pisa and DH said that was him. I pulled out the book and then called his name. He looked over and i held up the book- it was too funny! He talked to us for awhile and here's a pic of DH (on the right) and Rick Steeves...
http://www.shutterfly.com/jsp/proceserv.jsp?uid=8QaOGzdoyb2&state=67b0de21bb6fdc27c455&co=-1&js=1119970767042&p=6&pa=0.5486111111111112&rx=304&ry=304&ps=1

There are 2 places in Florence that were a must go for us! The first place is called Il Latini. We had heard about it from a Rachel Ray special (chef from the Food Network) and when we went- it was AMAZING and SO MUCH FUN! The food was great! You have to get there early and wait in line, then the doors open and people charge the door- *make sure that you have a reservation*! It's tough to get in because of the chaos when the doors open and everyone pushing, but soooo worth it!
The other place in Florence is called Aqua El Due (it says Aqua el 2 on the door). A few people i work with went there (and actual Rachel Ray did too). We got their pasta special which was where they bring out 5 different pastas for you to taste- that was incredible! It's really only enough for one person so we got something else too. The for dessert we got the sampler and again- amazing!

We went to Venice, Rome, Florence - from Florence we rented a car and drove to Pisa to see the leaning tower and then to Sienna, then we ended our trip on the Almafi Coast. I would highly recommend making your way to Sienna- that was very cool!

A few things we learned from our trip- 1- buy the blown glass in Venice!!! 2- cappucino is only consumed in the mornings, espresso is at night (one of the restaurants kindly corrected my hubby)! ;) 3- the train station in Rome is crazy- we had SOOOO many gypsy children come up to us- it was actually horrible! We had been warned about the gypsys so we knew- i'd feel horrible if someone didn't know because the kids were really cute! We bought art in Rome by the spanish steps- we talked the guy down in price and the pics were easy to roll up and keep safely in our suitcases until we got home.

Okay, that's all i can remember for now. Sadly, i almost said that i had a full recap in my newleywed journal but that was on WC! :(

Have a great trip and don't forget to buy Rick Steeves! :p

[laura]

We had cappucino every night in Italy (?), so I don't know why someone would tell you not to, or that you couldn't. Weird.

I forgot about the gypsies - the thing I found most bizarre and unsettling were the gypsy women with their babies. My husband's uncle got pikpocketed when one of these women threw her baby at him to distract him, so just be aware. I didn't see any women actually throw their children, but I did see a lot of women with babies basically using them to garner sympathy - very sad.

There is lots of glass jewelry that is beautiful in Venice. In fact, I am still kicking myself over not buying a beautiful necklace I saw there! :rolleyes:

[Bellefior]

I haven't been back in about 5 years. One piece of advice about Venice, the further away you get from St. Mark's Square, the cheaper things become! I wish I could remember the hole in the wall grotto restaurant we ate at. Cheap and so delicious! We ate there twice.

Ditto on the gypsy warning! Also, in Rome, for some reason the pickpockets love the bus that takes you to St. Peter's Square.

And as far as the cappucino thing goes, in Italy, it is considered a breakfast drink, which may be why you couldn't have it or they looked at you strange for ordering it. Anytime someone orders a cappucino, and its not morning, it pretty much says you are a tourist. Learned that the hard way from my relatives!

[tlew12778]

Yes ordering cappucino after 3pm is a red flag that you're a tourist. Then again, that will probably be pretty clear anyway, so if you want one just order one. I actually went out to dinner with an ITALIAN last month and she ordered a cappucino after dinner. It's more acceptable to order a caffe macchiato (this is an espresso with a drop of milk) after dinner.

The glass in Murano is absolutely famous. They are particularly famous for their chandaliers. But you will find all manner of glass objects there. You should actually take a trip out to Murano where you can see the factories.

[meatpie]

So with the new boards did we lose that huge thread on Italy from the WC??? Too bad, a ton of great info on there.

EATS I will echo someone else's recommendations for eats in Florence - Aqua El Due. Fabulous meal. The pasta sampler is amazing. We ordered that, the house red wine, and a couple steaks (peppercorn steak was amazing) - easily one of the best meals we have ever had. Make a reservation if your time is limited in Florence and you only have a few nights for dinner there. By the way...they also own Aqua Il Due (2) in downtown San Diego for anyone on the West Coast. Altogether same menu and wonderful meal.

Also a wonderful meal was Trattoria Quattro Leoni across the Arno in Florence. We had the Florentine steak; I had the pear pasta (my god it was to die for, order it) and the usual house red. Really special meal not frequented by tourists. Outside seating as well. http://www.4leoni.com/dove.asp

I have to agree it will be touch to find a bad meal (and gelato) in Rome, although I am not sure of the restaurants we ate at there. We were only there for two nights :( and one night we spent walking around until we found an outdoor restaurant. It was a wonderful mix of Italians, Germans, some French, and a few Americans. Anyway...Rome is a wonderful walking city (as is Florence and Venice) so if you can I might just explore until you find a place where you like the vibe.

Venice...we did eat well here, but we had a recommendation from our cousin who worked in Italy at the time. I can't recall the name, sorry. But just keep in mind this cuisine is different from Rome and Florence, (from what I understand the food is very regional) yet we had two great meals here as well.

HOTELS We stayed at wonderful hotels in the off season so they were greatly reduced.

Rome - Hotel Ambasciatori Palace. Wonderful hotel located on the Via Veneto close to Spanish Steps and metro. http://www.hotelambasciatori.com/en/

Florence - Hotel Plaza Lucchesi. Located along the Arno, on the edge of Florence. Great location, wonderful service and good breakfast. Also recommended to us were Hotel Brunelleschi, Hotel J and J, and Hotel Alle Ville Sull'Arno.

Venice - Hotel Londra Palace. Steps from San Marco. Beautiful luxury hotel. http://www.hotelondra.it/

DAY TRIPS We do quite a few. Milan for a futbol (soccer) match at the San Siro to see Inter Milan play. What an experience. If you enjoy sports, take in a match - it really is where you get away from everything and experience life in there. We also went to Lucca which I highly recommend. An ancient walled city, it's safe, beautiful, and the people are wonderful. Sienna Someone else mentioned Sienna and it is worth the trip. Architecture is very medieval and difference from that of Rome and Florence. Chianti region We hired a driver and toured a few wineries, stopped in Greve in Chianti, Castellina, a few other places.

GUIDEBOOKS Not knocking Rick Steeves, because many people travel using his books, but we prefer Frommers and Fodors. Make sure you check out more than one guidebook.

Enjoy your trip! I can't wait to get back there!!!

[laura]

Yes ordering cappucino after 3pm is a red flag that you're a tourist. Then again, that will probably be pretty clear anyway, so if you want one just order one. I actually went out to dinner with an ITALIAN last month and she ordered a cappucino after dinner. It's more acceptable to order a caffe macchiato (this is an espresso with a drop of milk) after dinner.

That is bizarre. We were with my ILs, and my FIL is from Italy. He prefers espresso, so that's what he ordered, but the rest of us ordered cappucino and no one even batted an eye. We even went out to dinner with my FIL's cousin and his wife (they live in Rome) and she ordered cappucino after dinner as well.

That said, everywhere we went, people pegged my FIL as Italian (spoke to him in Italian right off) and the rest of us - my husband, my MIL and me - they pegged as obviously American. It's funny b/c my husband is 100% Italian, and he could probably pass for my FIL's younger brother, but they still knew w/o either of them having to say a word. I don't think you will "fool" them either way, so I would just order what you like. ;)

[MLA]

I lived in Venice for 3 months, so I can give you some ideas for there. I love Rome, and I think anywhere you go in that city will be worthwhile. But since I'm more of a Venice expert, here are my thoughts:

Tours
If you get a chance to take a walking tour of the city, do it. I believe Thomas Cooke offers tours, and they’re really informative. If you take a tour, you’ll hit all of the main highlights of the city and you’ll learn a lot, too.



Weather:
If you're going in the summer, it will be HOT and MUGGY. And there will be mosquitos, so bring repellent with you (You can ignore the rest of this paragraph if you're travelling in the summer). If you're going in the winter, it's cold – generally in the 30’s and 40’s and rainy. If you're going in November and December, they're prime months for acqua alta. The key to dealing with acqua alta is tall rubber boots. They do build narrow platforms for people to walk on when acqua alta hits, but the locals don’t use them -- only the tourists do. So if you want to blend in, bring tall rubber boots. They also make it much easier to get around because those platforms are often pretty crowded. The places most affected by acqua alta are Piazza San Marco and the Rialto Bridge, which are the lowest points of the city. You won’t be taken by surprise by acqua alta because in the morning, if they expect it to happen, sirens go off. And if you do get hit with it, it’s kind of fun to go sloshing about in big boots – very liberating!



Places to go/do/eat:
There’s a café in the Piazza San Marco with the best tiramisu in town (or at least it was in 1996). I believe it’s the Gran Caffe Lavena, and it’s on the right side of the square, if you’re looking at it from the Basilica. Definitely go into the Basilica, and maybe do a tour of the Palazzo Ducale -- it’s not my favorite thing in Venice, but it does have an interesting history, and if you take the tour, I believe you can go through the Ponte dei Sospiri, which is pretty cool. Go to the top of the Campanile. You get a beautiful view of the city from there.

Best pizza is at the “Pizzeria ae Ocche,” (the “ae” is pronounced like “allay”), which is located at Calle de Tentor 1552-B (adjoining campo San Giocomo dell'Orio). Telephone 524-1161.) It’s inexpensive and sort of looks like an American college hangout, but there are always tons of locals there. It’s in a part of town nowhere near the tourist stuff. In order to find it, ask locals to point you to Campo San Polo. Once there, someone should be able to tell you where it is. You just need to keep asking folks for directions, and they’ll point you in the right direction. It’s a bit of a hike, but the pizza is great, and it’s nice to go to part of the town not as over-run by tourists as the Piazza and the Rialto.

One other quick restaurant suggestion -- On the Piazza San Marco, if you're feeling the desire to spend a lot of money, you should go to Ristorante Florian. I believe it's the oldest cafe/restaurant on the square.

You should definitely walk down la Strada Nova. It’s one of the main drags, located between the train station and the Rialto Bridge (which you should of course also see). There’s a gelateria there that has GREAT gelato. I don’t know how I didn’t gain 20 pounds while I was in Venice because nearly everyday I ate gelato from this place. It’s called La Gelateria Ca’ d’Oro. If you’re walking from the train station towards the Rialto, it’s on your right hand side. When you visit the Rialto, make sure to stop by the fish market. It smells pretty awful, but it’s interesting to see all of the weird fish they catch in Venice. Venetians eat a lot of fish. One of the indigenous dishes is a seafood soup made with a broth of squid ink. I’ve never been brave enough to try it, but if you want to sample true Venetian cuisine, get some of that.

If you have a chance to visit the island of Murano, I’d do that. The glass-blowing is pretty cool. And though morbid, the cemetery island is interesting: it’s an island devoted entirely to burial ground. There are a lot of famous people buried there, including Wagner and Stravinsky.

Keep in mind that locals are a bit leery of tourists. If you can speak Italian with them, do that. It will make them feel a bit better about you. And if they’re a little cold, don’t take it personally. I found that until the locals had seen me over and over again (for instance at the bakery or the market), they didn’t warm to me. They’re just so used to tourists schlepping through their city with no interest in the culture. And really, the beauty of Venice is all of the little streets and tons of churches. Just wander around and let yourself get lost (actually, you probably won’t be able to avoid getting lost in the city). There really aren’t any very scary areas – it’s not like Rome or Milan which are both full of pick-pockets. It’s a nice city, and the wonder of it is in its small alleyways and bridges.



Sorry for how long this post is, but Venice is such an amazing place. I have such love for the city, and I hope that you'll enjoy it when you go.

[tlew12778]

That said, everywhere we went, people pegged my FIL as Italian (spoke to him in Italian right off) and the rest of us - my husband, my MIL and me - they pegged as obviously American. It's funny b/c my husband is 100% Italian, and he could probably pass for my FIL's younger brother, but they still knew w/o either of them having to say a word. I don't think you will "fool" them either way, so I would just order what you like. ;) It's in the way you dress, the way you hold yourself, the way you walk... it's not in the face at all. It's hard to explain, but I can peg a tourist or a model (who are basically tourists that live in Milan full time) from 2 blocks away just by how they hold themselves and what they're wearing.

There is a great message board on msn called Expats in Italy. You can ask ppl there for suggestions and get the scoop from people who still live in the cities you are actually going to. It's a great crowd. Really, really friendly.

If you are coming anytime this summer, be prepared. I mean PREPARED. They are saying it will be worse than 2003 when thousands of ppl died. The last two days in Milan it has been over 110F with the humidity index. I have never felt this kind of heat in my life!

[laura]

It's in the way you dress, the way you hold yourself, the way you walk... it's not in the face at all. It's hard to explain, but I can peg a tourist or a model (who are basically tourists that live in Milan full time) from 2 blocks away just by how they hold themselves and what they're wearing.

Yeah, I know why they did it, it was just funny. The funny part is that my FIL has lived in the US for ~40 years now, and he dresses and acts pretty American. It was absolutely uncanny, though, the way the Italians (mostly older men, same generation) just knew.

[BethS0103]

Becki, that is so awesome you met Rick Steves! I am majorly jealous! ;) His books really helped us to really feel like we had Europe at our fingertips. We weren't intimidated or cultured shocked at all. He is one person I'd love to shake hands with and tell him what a great job he's done. :)

[bunnyboo]

Ditto on what Tiffany said about the Island of Murano. From Venice, you can take a ferry over to the Island and roam around the island to find beautiful pieces of glass. We also watched a demonstration on how the glass is blown there as well!

I also second (or third) taking the small trips to both Sienna and Pisa. Great small communities! Definitely worth the pictures!

As a side note, if you are going to Milan at all I would definitely reccommend getting in touch with my 2 uncles who reside there. They LOVE to take in american families that come reccommended by us (family). PM me if you're interested, but they definitely know the places to go as well!

[ag-girl]

We were just in Italy this past month....and I'm so ready to go back!

So, here are a few odds and ends of information.
Check out fodors.com message board, you can find some pretty good stuff there.

I'll second Il Latini in Florence, although we had an interesting time with making reservations. We went in the morning and the man basically said he would remember us! That evening we didn't even see him, but got in regardless. It is a mad house trying to get in, but just push your way to the front, as everyone else is doing. It's great fun and good food. Also in Florence not too far away from Il Latini is the Artist Bar. Yummy!

Don't skip out on gelato! We had 2 and 3 a day :D But with all the walking we did I think it evened out.

Speaking of walking, bring comfortable shoes.

For a day trip you might want to check out Orvieto. Neat hilltown with a gorgeous cathedral.

[tlew12778]

As a side note, if you are going to Milan at all I would definitely reccommend getting in touch with my 2 uncles who reside there. They LOVE to take in american families that come reccommended by us (family). PM me if you're interested, but they definitely know the places to go as well! If you want a list of stuff to do in Milan just give a shout. I actually just wrote up a whole post about Milan for another forum so I can copy and paste it here.

[Clattercote]

We just got back from a honeymoon in Italy and we stayed in Rome, 5 Terre, and Florence. I highly recommend the Beehive Hostel/Hotel in Rome - relatively inexpensive, clean, and funky place, with lots of good (a la carte) food. 5 Terre was our favorite place - we stayed at a little ex-convent in Monterosso. It has fabulous views, but unfortunately, a trememdous hike to get up there. Could not believe the hospitality though. I enjoyed all the food there - try to get local specialities and local wine everywhere. Make reservations for Uffizi gallery pretty quickly if you plan to go while you're in Florence - they were all booked up for the entire month of June due to a new exhibit, so I don't know if that's affected later reservations or not.

[sueandalvin]

We love Italy...

I third Il Latini in Florence. Just get there early...people line up to get in.

In Rome, try Il Baffeta...it is a pizza place and so good. About five minutes walk from Piazza Navona.

As for "pegging you as a tourist", DH and I read about this so we dressed nicely the whole time. Several times we were asked if we were from Switzerland, England, etc. We really felt like we were treated better...I know it sounds bad but some American's aren't the nicest tourists.

The gypsy situation is bad. Don't even make eye contact! Especially in Rome, they will hand you a rose and say "its a gift" and then front off your man about paying for the compliment. It can get pretty ugly.

I also agree with going to Murano in Venice. It is very interesting.

[Daisy]

Hmmm, gelato sounds so good right now! I was just in Italy earlier this month for a vacation/cruise - we had such a great time.

In Venice, we stayed at the Palazzo Sant Angelo, it's on the grand canal between the Rialto and St. Marks, very close to a bus stop. Very nice hotel in a great location. We did all the main tourist things in Venice, plus we did the Secret Itineraries tour at Doge's Palace. It was really cool. We loved Venice. :D

We also visited Rome, Florence, and Pisa - all great. Rome was really crowded though and we weren't able to see the Sistine Chapel at the Vatican (the line was ridiculously long). :(

You may also want to consider visiting the Amalfi Coast and Pompeii. The Amalfi coast is so beautiful, DH and I will definitely return there. Pompeii was really interesting as well - you can easily spend a whole day there.

Have a great time!

[Elizabeth]

I second the recommendation about the Amalfi Coast. I've been all over Italy, and it's my favorite place. Positano at night has got to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world.

http://www.terragalleria.com/images/italy/ital7528.jpeg

If you don't want to look like a tourist, don't wear white tennis shoes.

[meggiedarlin]

First suggestion: Take me with you!!!!

OK, you're probably not going to go for that. But just in case....

I'm going to echo what the others said: Rick Steves is a god. Love his books. I personally didn't like 5 Terre. A bit more climibing than I wanted to do on a vacation.

Wear a waist wallet. Period. That way you won't have to worry about anyone stealing from you. I keep my day's money in a change purse that is safety-pinned into my pocket. So if some one does grab it from my pocket, they're taking me with it!

If you don't want to go further south than Rome, hit Ostio Antica. Rick talks about how to get there in his Rome book. You can get there from Rome via subway. It's Roman ruins like Pompeii, but much closer! You have the run of the place. Really cool.

Gelato: eat some for me!!

[alootikki]

DH and I are going to northern Italy for a week this May (we tend to be last-minute planners!). We're thinking of doing Venice, Florence, and either Lake Como or the Cinque Terre (leaning more towards CT). Any tips or thoughts? Anything else in the region that we should see instead/in addition? Thanks!

[Hello Kitty]

Here's a big thread on Italy (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=385&highlight=Italy) and one with a lot of Northern Italy (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=13199) specifics. Have fun! :)

[alootikki]

Thanks, Seb's Kitty! I forgot to search :o

[ukbabe]

Seeing as I just got back from my solo adventure, I thought I would drop a line. I did the North to South route...Milan - 5 terre - Florence - Rome - Pompeii (all in a week, so it was very rushed)

In 5 Terre, I stayed at an awesome place Hotel Punta Mesco (only 65 euros) and close to the beach in Monterossa. I did the 4.5 hour hike from Monterossa to Riomaggiore, though I did it a bit early in the morning and it was misty and overcast.....very exhilarating I must say, though I that thought I was fit, had my legs shaking by the end. (I guess because I did not really pause in the towns on my way through).......(Followed Rick Steves book all the way!)

In Florence stayed at Hotel Pensione Maxim, which was very basic, (nice and clean) but was right on Via del Calzaiuoli, next door to the Duomo, a walk away from the Uffizi and the Accademia (have your hotel make your reservations) and the covered market and street market.

In Rome, stayed at Hotel Italia, just off of Via Nazionale , (small rooms, but good location). I followed Rick Steve's Night Walk tour (Piazza Novona - Pantheon - Trevi Fountain - Spanish Steps) on my first night.

Tips: Vatican City: well, I got there quite early around 8.00am, and there was a queue for groups and individuals, and was sent from one to the other, only to find out that they let the queue for groups in first b4 the one for individuals....was quite peeved about that......and after the Sistine Chapel, take the exit in the corner on the right.....it will lead you right to St. Peters.

Colosseum: definitely buy your ticket at Palatine Hill (10 euro).....even though you are walking up hill past the Colosseum. When you get back to the Colosseum walk past the queue to the front and just slide your ticket into the turnstile.

Train tickets: don't get them before hand, as chances are you will want to catch an earlier or later train (The screens on the station show the trains 2ce: Arriving and Departing, I found this confusing for a while) Also, I was told to validate my tickets in the machines on the platform before hand, so make sure you do.

Pickpockets: They are everywhere, just don't carry anything of value in your backpack. I carried everything in my inside pockets and zipped my jacket all the way up.

All my reservations were made via email

Pompeii....(day trip from Rome) this was awesome, though I got frazzled trying to follow so many different maps, so eventually tagged onto an american tour group.

Wow! I have written a book....sorry! Let me know if you need any further info....

[Nikker]

I went to Rome in Nov2005. LOTS to see there. I only got to stay there overnight for 1 day b/c I was going on a cruise that left out of Rome. We did the Colosseum and a bus tour. There was SO much more that I wanted to do but with the time restraints that I had, I couldn't. I just need to go back!

[Rosebud]

I haven't been north of Rome yet, but figured I'd post my trip review from southern Italy in case it might help anyone who's headed to that area. This trip was in 2003.

Trip Review: Rome and Positano

If you're planning to go to Italy, I highly recommend the following websites:

Fodors.com- Great info about Italy and very helpful message boards
Italyby.com- You can book your hotel here. Lots of options with photos!
Venere.com- Another site where you can book your hotel. They have good budget options here, too.
Frommers.com- Great planning website
The Honeymoon Bio (http://talk.theknot.com/boards/User/Profile.aspx?bioname=thehoneymoonbio)- Trip reviews and photos from brides who've honeymooned in Italy. Great tips even if you're not on your honeymoon.
TripAdvisor.com- Don't book a hotel before you check reviews here!

ROME

HOTELS

Hotel Romano- I stayed two nights here in a single with private bath. (80e /night). The room was very small, but also clean and secure. The best part of the Romano was the location (right next to the Forum at the end of Via Cavour) and the staff of the hotel (all the people at the front desk spoke English, were very polite, gave restaurant recommendations, lent umbrullas when it rained and hailed cabs for me). This place isn't fancy, and there are no elevators so you have to carry your bags up the stairs. I wouldn't recommend it for a romantic trip, but if you're traveling on a budget, this is a good option.

Mecenate Palace Hotel- I stayed here three nights in a triple room (after my friends arrived in Rome). This was a bit of a splurge for us (279e/ night) but I just loved this hotel! It's in a wonderful location (right next to Santa Maria Maggiore, a 10 minute walk from the train station). The hotel is very elegant, our rooms were large and furnished with beautiful cherrywood furniture (the bathroom was enormous and really luxurious). The service was outstanding. There is a rooftop restaurant/bar/patio here with great views that we really enjoyed. The hotel is also close to the Metro. I'd definitely recommend this as a hotel for a romantic getaway.

RESTAURANTS (from 2003)

Sabatini- This is a great people-watching restaurant in Trastevere (Piazza Santa Maria). You definitely want a patio seat at night. However, we thought it was really overpriced for the quality of the food. My pasta dish was great, but my friends had other meals that were just average). If you don't mind spending the money, it's a scenic place to sit outside. But we had better food in Rome.

Ristorante Cleto- We stumbled into this casual little place entirely on accident and it ended up being the best meal we ate in Rome. It's tucked into an alley off of Via Cavour about a block and a half from the end of the street (near the Forum). It's got a tiny outdoor patio. The chef came out and greeted us personally and made dinner recommendations. The bruschetta here was the best we had on our whole trip, and the pasta Arrabiata was wonderful.

Antico Caffe Della Pace - This was another wonderful restaurant (Near Piazza Navona) where we had an outstanding lunch. Tucked into a quiet and scenic little alley near Piazza Navona, this café has outdoor seating and some really great paninis and salads. If you're in the area, I highly recommend it.

Tudini- Tudini is on Via Cavour, only a few blocks from the train station. The prices are very reasonable and the pizza is great.

Caffe Sant' Eustachio- This is a little coffee shop and was a tip from the people at Fodors.com. It turned out to be one of my favorite places in all of Rome. I ended up going here for capuccino every day! It is in Piazza Sant' Eustachio, right near the Pantheon and the cappuccino here is just exceptional. It's always crowded with Romans and a few smart tourists. The cappuccino recipe here is so guarded that the staff actually turns their back to you when they make them, which is funny. Be sure to buy a bag of the coffee beans and bring them home! Also, the chocolate covered espresso beans make great gifts.

Blue Ice- I got lost looking for San Crispino (which is supposed to be one of the best gelato places in Rome) near Trevi Fountain and ended up just buying a gelato here instead. It was very tasty and they have a great selection of flavors. I recommend it!

SIGHTS:

We did a lot of wandering and exploring. Saw all of the major sights and lots of other places as well. I'm only going to mention the sights I have specific feedback on, but we saw a lot of other great places as well.

THE COLOSSEUM- You really get a better sense of this place with a tour, or at least a very detailed guide book. I recommend a tour! English speaking tours start near the front entrance all the time. It should cost you 10 euro or less.

ROMAN FORUM- I also recommend a tour here. Fortunately, many of the English-speaking tours here are free. Just look around for tour guides when you enter.

THE VATICAN- It is so, so crowded here. Even on a weekday, even in the offseason. And this is another place where you will want to have a good guidebook or take the audiotour. It helps to know what you are looking at.

ST. PETERS- They are very serious about covering your shoulders and knees, ladies! We saw several people who were made to stay outside because they were in tank tops. Bring a sweater!

GALLERIA BORGHESE- A great little musuem at the edge of Rome that I recommend seeing. You need to make a reservation online before you leave for your trip (or have your hotel call once you get there). I got hideously lost taking the Metro to the Borghese and wandered around in the park for 30 minutes. You might want to take a cab, or at least take along a good map and be prepared to ask for directions in the park. Also, you HAVE to check your bags here. They wouldn't even let me carry in my small purse. Still, I thought that "Apollo and Daphne" was worth the inconvenience! This museum is filled with little treasures. The park is lovely too!

BASILICAS- I was really impressed with Santa Maria Maggiore and San Giovanni in Laterano. These are both gorgeous churches with lots of detail and interesting artwork/sculpture. They were saying masses in both churches when I went in, and the sound of the mass echoing through the church was beautiful. Neither one is too crowded-- which is nice---and I'd really recommend seeing them.

TORRE ARGENTINA CAT SANCTUARY- I stumbled across this place and fell in love. If you're an animal person, you will definitely want to stop and check this place out. It's a quick 10 minutes out of your day, but I thought it was cute. I saw a sign here that said they offered tours, but it was never open when I was there.

THE PANTHEON- I just loved The Pantheon! The domed interior of the Pantheon is very impressive. It was raining when I was there, and the rain falls right into the building and then drains through holes in the floor. The art throughout the Pantheon is lovely, and you'll also find the tomb of the artist Raphael here. Outside the Pantheon is the Piazza Della Rotunda, at the center of which is a obelisk atop a fountain. This is such a pretty area and a wonderful place to have a leisurely lunch.

PIAZZA NAVONA- This is possibly the prettiest piazza in Rome. Filled with vendors selling posters, scarves and all sorts of things, the piazza is ringed by restaurants. There are three fountains in Piazza Navona. In the center is the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, there's also Fontana del Moro and the Fountain of Neptune-- all gorgeous. Also in Piazza Navona, you'll see the lovely church of Sant' Agnese in Agone.

SPANISH STEPS- Crowded and heavily policed. Still, a great place to sit and people-watch after a long day of walking around Rome. Do not eat on the stairs, though. The police get very agitated about that.

VICTOR EMANUELE MONUMENT- Climb up to the top for great photo spots! We took some great pictures of the Colosseum and Forum from here. There is no tour or anything here, so bring along a guidebook for the history of the monument.

SCALA SANCTA (HOLY STAIRS)- The Scala Sancta is a staircase that is supposed to have been walked upon by Jesus Christ and is considered holy and sacred. This is a popular destination for those who come to Rome looking for Christian sites. I stumbled upon it by accident and was fascinated. You are not supposed to touch the stairs with your feet. You can only ascend them on your knees. When you walk into the building, you'll see the staircase right in front of you. Groups of people will be going up the stairs on their knees, praying with their rosaries. Quite a sight!

In all, Rome was wonderful! There were some things that took a little getting used to (the difficulty crossing the street because Romans drive like crazy people!) but we met so many wonderful people there, saw the most amazing sights and sampled some great cuisine. Rome was just incredible!

Photos from Rome:

Rome: Piazza Della Rotunda (at the Pantheon)
http://images.snapfish.com/34682853%3B%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658%3DX ROQDF%3E232358%3A553%3B97ot1lsi

Rome: Trevi Fountain
http://images.snapfish.com/34682853%3B%7Ffp64%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658%3DX ROQDF%3E232358%3A553796ot1lsi

Rome: The Colosseum
http://images.snapfish.com/34682853%3B%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658%3DX ROQDF%3E232358%3A553%3B92ot1lsi

The Forum
http://images.snapfish.com/34682853%3B%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658%3DX ROQDF%3E232358%3A553%3B95ot1lsi

[Rosebud]

(Continued from above)


POSITANO:

From Rome we went on to Positano (via Formia, Gaeta, Naples and Sorrento). I went to Positano to attend the wedding of a friend. If you're considering getting married abroad or just need a really special romantic getaway, look no further than Positano. It is unbelievably romantic and beautiful.

Positano feels very isolated. It's quite a journey to get here (from Rome: a train to Naples, then another train to Sorrento, then a bus) and once in Positano it seems very separate from the rest of the world. The city is beyond gorgeous-- building of every color spill down the hillside into the sea. Despite being perched on rock cliffs, Positano is filled with lovely foliage and blooms. The rock beach is wide and welcoming and the water is perfectly warm. After experiencing the hustle and bustle of Rome, Positano was a relaxing and thoroughly enjoyable retreat.

HOTELS:

Villa Gabrisa- Villa Gabrisa is a wonderful, apartment-style hotel in Positano. We were so glad that we picked this place! Everyone at the front desk spoke English and was enormously helpful (directing us to buses, reserving boat trips for us, recommending restaurants). They also have a high-speed internet connection in the lobby. You have to pay for it, but it's not too much. We had a two-bedroom suite (shared between six people). It had a kitchen, two bathrooms, air conditioning and a small balcony with an amazing ocean view! The whole place was clean, comfortable and just perfect. The only downside is that it's rather far from the beach. If you have trouble with stairs, you'll want to stay further down the hill.

Villa Rosa- I did not actually stay at this hotel, but several friends of mine did when we all met in Positano. I spent some time at the hotel with them and found it to be very charming and convenient. Villa Rosa is located not far from the beach, just across the street from Le Sirenuse, the famous resort. The location is very central and you won't have to climb all that many stairs to get to and from downtown (this is a GOOD thing in Positano!). The rooms are large and very clean and have good sized bathrooms. All the rooms that face the ocean have large patios with lots of seating room. You have a great view of the sea and coastline from here.

Le Sirenuse- Le Sirenuse is the premiere luxury hotel in Positano. This hotel is really expensive (rooms range from about 250e-700e per night), but if you're looking to splurge, this is the place to do it. Le Sirenuse is located very near the beach, so you won't have many stairs to contend with. It's also one of the only hotels in Positano with a parking garage (and there are a steady stream of Mercedes convertibles heading there every weekend). The lobby is white and crisp, with a gorgeous view of the ocean through big glass doors. The rooms and suites are very elegant, with tile accents and white linens on the bed. Most rooms have a balcony overlooking the ocean.

RESTAURANTS:

Lo Guarracino- Lo Guarracino is a wonderful, unpretentious restaurant tucked away into the mountainside of Positano and overlooking the ocean. It's not as crowded as the restaurants down on the beach, but the views are just as wonderful and the food is even better. This was the best meal we had while in Positano. The wine is served in earthenware carafes. Order lots of it. I had a wonderful spinach and cheese ravioli dish and the bruschetta was very tasty. My friends enjoyed the lasagna and pasta l'arrabiata.

Buca di Bacco- Buca di Bacco is located right on the beach in Positano, a very convenient spot for dining during your visit. While it's always crowded due to its location, I found the service to be extremely good and the food quite tasty. They also have a gelato bar if you just want to pop in for sweets. I ordered the catch of the day, a local whitefish. Delicious!

Hotel Palazzo Murat Restaurant- This is where my friend's wedding reception was held. The dining room at Hotel Palazzo Murat is entirely outdoors, surrounded by trees. It is gorgeous! If you're going to have an elegant, special night out while you're in Positano, this is a wonderful place to dine. It's expensive, but the atmosphere is so gorgeous, the food so delicious and the service so attentive that the experience is worth every penny. We had a five course meal that included salad, ravioli, John Dory (whitefish) fillet, gelato, cake, and limoncello. It was all really delicious!

SIGHTS:

SANTA MARIA ASSUNTA- The church of Santa Maria Assunta is the most recognizable landmark in Positano. Built in a moorish style, the church has a domed, brightly-colored roof (constructed of majolica) that really stands out on the landscape. Inside the church, you'll see a rare 13th century Byzantine Black Madonna.

POMPEII- We traveled out of Positano to see Pompeii. We caught the bus to Sorrento, then hopped on the Circumvesuviana train to the Pompeii stop. It was absolutely worth seeing! Absolutely amazing. I was there towards the end of the day when there weren't many tourists left and when it is quiet and uncrowded the place is really haunting. Highly recommended.

OTHER:

Limoncello- When you're on the Amalfi Coast, you'll notice that lemons seem to be a prevailing theme in restaurants and shops. Lemon flavored and scented items are very popular here, and none more so than Limoncello, a lemon-based liqueur. Limoncello is made by soaking the zest of lemons in whole grain alcohol for several days. The result is a thick liqueur that tastes strongly of lemons. Italians drink it after meals as a "digestive." I didn't actually care for Limoncello much, but you really have to try it at least once. If you become a fan (as several of my friends did) you can buy bottles of it to take home. They make a great souvenir or gift.

Photos:

Positano
http://images.snapfish.com/34682853%3B%7Ffp64%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658%3DX ROQDF%3E232358%3A55438%3Bot1lsi

Postiano
http://images.snapfish.com/34682853%3B%7Ffp3%3B%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658%3 DXROQDF%3E232358%3A554975ot1lsi

Positano
http://images.snapfish.com/34682853%3B%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658%3DX ROQDF%3E232358%3A555872ot1lsi

Pompeii
http://images.snapfish.com/34682853%3B%7Ffp63%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658%3DX ROQDF%3E232358%3A5539%3A2ot1lsi

Sorrento
http://images.snapfish.com/34682853%3B%7Ffp64%3Dot%3E232%3B%3D74%3B%3D658%3DX ROQDF%3E232358%3A5584%3C8ot1lsi

[Rosebud]

Secret Hotels of the Amalfi Coast

Reid Bramblett scoured Italy's cliffside villages--and the island of Capri, while he was at it--for million-dollar views at hundred-dollar prices

Tuesday, June 20, 2006

POSITANO

Albergo California
Maria Cinque makes a point of chatting with every one of her guests, if not at check-in (which her son Gianni sometimes handles), then at breakfast the next morning. She's particularly delighted to meet Americans, as she and her husband Antonio lived in the Bronx for nine years, returning to Italy in 1974 to run a family hotel five minutes' walk from the center of Positano--and to teach their children "what it means to be Italian," in Maria's words. Six of the 15 guestrooms are in the original 1777 Palazzo Bruno, including four upstairs rooms with 18th-century ceiling frescoes. Many regulars prefer ground-floor rooms 51 to 55, however, because they open directly onto the magnificent, long entrance terrace and enjoy postcard views of Positano framed by ivy trailing off the shady trellis. Rooms without sea views (they actually look out to a wall) cost $65 less--an option certainly worth considering, since all guests have access to the terrace. Each of the California's rooms is spacious, and seems even more so due to minimal furnishings. At sunset, small groups gather on the terrace to sip wine, plan the next day, and pinch themselves, realizing that they've got the same view as the chichi Le Sirenuse hotel down the street for one-third the price. Via Cristoforo Colombo 141, Positano, 011-39/089-875-382, hotelcaliforniapositano.com, doubles from $180 in low season and $190 in high season, including breakfast, closed mid-November to mid-March.

La Rosa dei Venti
Positano long ago traded its fishing village ambience for the role of chic jet-setter resort. But sleepy old Positano still exists, just around the headland. A five-minute walk on a narrow path carved into the cliff leads to the secluded beach at Fornillo, a quiet neighborhood in a steep valley. Halfway up Fornillo's sole, stair-stepped street lies La Rosa dei Venti. Each of the six rooms comes with a small terrace, decorated with flowers, that offers a view of the beach, mountains, turquoise waters dotted with anchored ships, and a medieval tower built as a lookout against Saracen pirates. Tramontana is the most elegant room, with a gold brocade bedspread, antique writing desk, a nonworking brick fireplace, patterned ceramic floor tiles, and floor-to-ceiling drapes. The two rooms that have kitchenettes, Libeccio and Scirocco, cost $25 more than a regular double. Rather than closing in winter like many area inns, the B&B just drops its prices by $65 from October through May (excluding Easter). Via Fornillo 40, Positano, 011-39/089-875-252, larosadeiventi.net, $130-$190.

AMALFI

Hotel Residence
Sometimes, a gem hides right in plain sight. The blandly named Hotel Residence is in the middle of town on the main drag. Less than 200 feet away are the beach in one direction and the cathedral, famous for its mosaic facades, in the other. Beyond the reception desk, which is wedged between a souvenir shop and an eyeglass kiosk, guests take an elevator up one floor and step into the foyer of an 18th-century patrician palazzo. The skylit, three-story atrium is centered on an elegant curved staircase. Inside the atrium and surrounding corridors are Victorian-style Italian ornaments: marble busts, gilded mirrors, illuminated manuscripts, antique dioramas, a papier-mache ballerina under a glass dome. The rooms themselves, however, tend to be tiny, with solid, slightly scuffed antique wooden furnishings offset by new upholstery and brocade bedcovers. A few have magnificent frescoed ceilings and balcony views of the beach, just across the road. Street noise is the trade-off for the view. Double sets of double-paned glass on sliding doors don't completely block out the sound, but the commotion outside generally subsides well before midnight. Rooms over the side street leading to the cathedral are quieter, while those on the opposite alley, with balconies on which guests can catch a little sun and glimpse a sliver of sea, are nearly silent. Corso delle Repubbliche Marinare 9, Amalfi, 011-39/089-871-183, residencehotel-amalfi.it, doubles $155-$165, closed late October to late April.

SORRENTO

Casa Astarita
The Astarita sisters, Rita and Annamaria, turned a rambling apartment just a block past Sorrento's cathedral into a welcoming, six-room B&B with a personal touch. "This is our family palazzo," says Rita in her smoky rumble, as she joins her guests for a communal breakfast of croissants, cheese, fresh fruit, yogurt, cakes, and homemade marmalades. Family heirlooms mingle with Ikea-esque furnishings under high archways, and the fireplace is flanked by a courtesy tray of limoncello liqueur on one side and a computer with free Internet access on the other. Three rooms (Mitica, Mediterranea, and Moderna) have little balconies that hang over Sorrento's main drag. The other three (including Romantica, with a high-backed inlaid wooden bed; and Storta, a narrow, wedge-shaped room with stairs leading to the bed) overlook the greenhouse-like roof of the popular restaurant next door (La Favorita) and cliffs that glow golden at sunset. Corso Italia 67, Sorrento, 011-39/081-877-4906, casastarita.com, doubles $110-$120, closed December 1-March 31.

PRAIANO

Locanda Costa Diva
Many Amalfi Coast visitors spend their time in the three most famous resort towns--Amalfi, Positano, and Ravello--with little thought of the less-heralded villages in between. Halfway from Positano to Amalfi, Praiano is a nondescript old fishing village with a small beach; it's secluded enough that few tourists hop off at its bus stop. Spilling down the hillside in a series of lush garden terraces and rural structures converted into secluded rooms, the Costa Diva was opened four years ago by the Milo brothers, Pino and Filippo. They named the rooms after film divas of the mid-20th century who vacationed or shot movies here, such as the Sophia (Loren) and the Marilyn (Monroe). The two non-movie-star rooms are Ester, in honor of the brothers' 96-year-old grandmother, and Rafaella, a little stone house with a balcony on the sea, at the end of a long path lined by oleander and daisies. Rafaella is named for their mother: "A bigger diva, you won't find," says Filippo with a grin. Pino, who tends the gardens, leads the way through the tangle of flagstone pathways and tiled terraces cutting though the foliage; he points out grape vines, prickly pears, red hibiscus, palms, rosemary, and pink roses, as well as the lemon, lime, orange, and fig trees. "I could have had a place in Amalfi--for much less money, too," he says. "But there's no tranquility there. I could only get guests who are passing through, not ones who will stay." He smiles. "Stay and then come back again." Via Roma 12, Praiano, 011-39/089-813-076, locandacostadiva.it, doubles $100-$140, open year-round.

CAPRI

Villa Krupp
The island of Capri, in the Tyrrhenian Sea, is a ritzy--and occasionally trashy--slice of la dolce vita. On the south side of Capri town, amid the hills and winding paths of Giardini di Augusto park, is Villa Krupp, clinging to the subdued grandeur of an era when Russian intellectuals such as Lenin and Gorky were lodgers (before the villa became a hotel). Owner Valentina Coppola hasn't raised prices much to keep up with the island's popularity, though she continues to fuss over the details, carefully selecting the local reproduction antiques and Florentine artisanal furnishings, positioning the breakfast terrace for optimal views, and counseling her guests on which are the best trattorias. Her 12 rooms are often booked by repeat guests who stay for a week or longer every summer. While the rooms have air-conditioning and telephones, you won't find TVs. "Our clients come for quiet," sniffs Signora Coppola, though she has relented and installed a TV in the lounge, just in case. It's rarely switched on. Most guests prefer to sit on their room balconies, gaze over umbrella pines to the famous faraglioni sea stacks, and listen to the chirping cicadas and the water splashing against rocks far below. Standard rooms are on the ground floor, with views of more trees than sea, and rent for $180. For $200, the primo piano rooms upstairs offer better views from colorfully tiled terraces and slightly fancier digs: elaborately painted furnishings, wooden bed frames sculpted with birds, and mirror frames finished with gold leaf. Viale Giacomo Matteotti 12, Capri, 011-39/081-837-0362, doubles $180-$200, closed November 1 to early April.

continued...

[Rosebud]

ANACAPRI

Il Girasole
A teensy public bus departs from the Marina Grande docks--just outside Capri town--for a 20-minute drive to Anacapri, the island's other village, on the slopes of Monte Solaro. Ask the driver what lies beyond the village and he'll say, "Nothing." That's not entirely true. There's a cement pathway, with scurrying lizards and high walls that spill over with bougainvillea, as well as fig, olive, and oak branches. Follow the path for 10 minutes, past the wrought-iron gates of houses scattered across this back side of the island, and you arrive at the Girasole, a set of four buildings with killer views across brick terraces to the Bay of Naples far below. Rooms 16, 18, 19, 22, 23, and 24 have the best panoramas; the views from rooms 8 to 11 (under the pool deck) are partially blocked by flowering vines. Unless you're desperate to save the extra $15 to $20 per night, avoid rooms 3 to 5, which are under the reception hall and offer views only of the linen closet. All the numbered rooms are decorated with tasteful modular furnishings and padded headboards. The two named rooms (Aurum and Raggio di Luna) are larger, pricier suites that have been gussied up with reproduction antiques, stuccowork or painted motifs on the walls, and picture windows. Via Linciano 47, Anacapri, 011-39/081-837-2351, ilgirasole.com, doubles $90-$190, closed November 1 to early April.

Villa Eva
The Villa Eva isn't just Eva Balestrieri's hotel. It's her childhood home; she was born in room 5. The room, which now welcomes guests, has a huge terrace, cupola ceiling, and walls covered in watercolors and chalk drawings. Eva's husband, Vincenzo, is the artist; he also made furniture throughout the property, and spent decades transforming the grounds into a carefully tended jungle. Stone paths twist past nooks and gazebos, and the outdoor pool and attached bungalow bar (with TV lounge and Internet stations). Cottages scattered about have been turned into guest rooms stuffed with idiosyncratic details: sculpted columns, Moorish windows, painted tile work, stained glass, old fireplaces, and Gaudi-esque chimneys. The main house consists mostly of oversized, multiroom suites designed for families or small groups of backpacking buddies. It's a warren, with many rooms accessible via outdoor staircases over the roofs of the rooms below, and lounge chairs on every available flat space. Villa Eva is halfway along the country road from Anacapri to the Blue Grotto. Take a taxi, or arrange for the hotel's shuttle to pick you up at the main Capri port or in Anacapri. If you really want to get there on your own, ask for specific directions when you make reservations or you'll never find the place. It's a 20-minute walk downhill from Anacapri--and a world away from the hobnobbing crowd in Capri town. Via La Fabbrica 8, Anacapri, 011-39/081-837-1549, villaeva.com, closed November 1 to mid-March, doubles $115-$145.

How to get around the Amalfi Coast and Capri

To go anywhere in this region, you have to pass through Naples--the only city in Italy where even Italians fear to drive. No matter how tempting it may be to rent a cherry-red convertible, tackling the Amalfi Coast by car is a mistake. Traffic is heinous (including jams at tight curves that require all stopped cars to back up in unison to allow the passage of a bus coming from the other direction), and parking is both exorbitantly expensive (upwards of $40 a day) and frustratingly limited.

Good thing there's an extensive public transportation system. At the Napoli Centrale station, catch the twice-hourly Circumvesuviana, a clattering old suburban rail line that'll take you to Sorrento (70 min., $4). From there, it's an easy transfer to a bus or a ferry.

Finding the Circumvesuviana, which runs under Napoli Centrale, is a bit tricky. Head toward the station's main exit, but just before you get there, look to the left for stairs leading down. Follow CIRCUMVESUVIANA signs; but partway along the hall, stop at the ticket windows you'll see on your left. Several commuter lines use the same platform; ask around to be sure the train is bound for Sorrento before stepping on board. Beware of pickpockets every step of the way.

To get to Capri from Sorrento, catch a taxi or a local bus to the docks for one of five daily ferries (20-50 min., $10) or 15 daily hydrofoils (20 min., $15).

To reach Amalfi, Praiano, or Positano, you'll need to head to the south side of the Sorrento Peninsula along the undulating Amalfi Coast Drive. This white-knuckle thrill ride is one of Italy's greatest wonders: just over 30 miles of narrow, S-curve roadway strung halfway up a cliff with the waves crashing below, green slopes all around, medieval pirate watchtowers on the headlands, and colorful villages in the coves. Every 50 minutes, a SITA bus (sitabus.it) runs from the front of the Sorrento train station to Positano (50 min., $2.25) or Amalfi (100 min., $4). For the best views, snag a window seat on the right side of the bus.

The ride back hugs the cliff, cutting out the views, so a fast Metrò del Mare ferry (metrodelmare.com) makes more sense--especially if you find you can't stomach another bus ride. Ferry frequency varies with the season, but there are roughly three daily between Amalfi and Positano (30 min., $8), three daily between Amalfi and Sorrento (1 hr., $9), and two daily between Amalfi and Naples (2-2.5 hrs., $13). For the latest information and schedules, call the tourist boards, below; websites are nonexistent or not very helpful.

Amalfi 011-39/089-871-107
Capri 011-39/081-837-5308
Naples 011-39/081-402-394
Positano 011-39/089-875-067
Sorrento 011-39/089-807-4033

source: BudgetTravelOnline.com

[Rosebud]

Links to some of the other posts about Italy on this board:

ROME (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=13742)

Going to Italy... what should I bring? (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=3284&highlight=italy)

Italy Help (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=21608)

Pricing help for Italy (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=19904)

Tuscan Villas (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=16517)

Italy-- need help with itinerary (http://www.constantchatter.com/showthread.php?t=7011)

[Annette]

I am so excited! DH and I and two of our friends are going to Italy in October. We're going to Rome, Sorrento/Pompeii, florence and venice.

How long is travel time from sorrento to pompeii? We're staying at the Hilton Sorrento.

Is Capri worth going to in October? Is it still swimming season?

[tlew12778]

Sorrento to Pompeii... short... a lot of people stay in Sorrento then just visit Pompeii for the day. I think there is a train.

I would not swim in October but I am sure some people do. The climate is comparable to say... DC. Would you swim at Virgina Beach in October? Don't expect it to be HOT, but it won't be cold, cold either. It rarely goes below freezing even in the dead of winter here.

[tlew12778]

I found this article about travelling along the Amalfi Coast (http://www.theamericanmag.com/article.php?show_article_id=416). It's from a satyrical American mag about life in Italy, but it's probably totally true.

[Rosebud]

Great hotel, dining and shopping tips for Venice from readers at Fodors.com:

Their Own Private Venice

For many travelers, sampling a city's culture means doing as the locals do. In a tourist destination like Venice, discovering and reveling in these simple pleasures might seem inconceivable. However, posters to our talk forums constantly encourage first-time visitors to seek out the city's more subtle charms for a fuller picture of the "real" Venice. Many are repeat visitors to the La Serenissima and have had the pleasure of finding their own favorite spots. Here are a few of their suggestions:

Memorable Meals

Corte Sconta
"I cannot recommend it enough. To the point where, if I knew you, I would take you by the hand, walk you to the door, and get you a table."

Al Gondolieri
"Make sure you've worked up an appetite during the day because the food here is superb as is the wine."

Alle Testiere
"There were no menus; the waiters just told you the menu of the day."

Osteria alla Botte
"A very, very casual restaurant, noisy, cramped with people (mostly Venetians, get me right!) in jolly spirit."

Trattoria Vino da Arturo
"I had spaghetti gorgonzola for the starter and a scallopine limone as the main plate and it was tremendous."

Osteria Le Logge
"We asked the maitre d' to have the chef prepare a 7-course meal and to pick out the wines. The meal was so good, we returned three days later and had another feast.


A Perfect Night's Sleep

Hotel Lisbona
"I absolutely loved our little balcony---it really made the stay so special."

Ca'San Trovaso
"We ponied-up for one of the canal view rooms at 130 Euro/night. It was nice sleeping with the windows open."

Pensione La Calcina
"A little gem of peaceful, cool, quiet, what a relief after a day in the sometimes hectic feel of Venice."

Locanda Orseolo
"Gorgeous wood beams, Venetian red everywhere, Murano glass chandeliers and light fixtures, the stone casing the doorways, beautiful rich fabrics and thick lovely area rugs..."

Ca'Pisani
"(The hotel) is in a renovated palazzo but is a thoroughly modern Italian "design" hotel with high-tech amenities."


Best Buys

Mandarina Duck
"Mandarina Duck is a very popular retailer and manufacturer of trendy,fun leather bags and accessories that are (fairly) reasonably priced."

Mauro Vianello
"I have found a lovely glassmaker from Murano named Mauro Vianello. He has a shop in San Marco. You know what you're buying from him is authentic---you can watch him making glass in his shop."

Il Papiro
"for marbled paper and other beautiful paper items...they are exquisitely made."

Link to Article (http://www.fodors.com/wire/archives/001826.cfm)

[Rosebud]

I am so excited! DH and I and two of our friends are going to Italy in October. We're going to Rome, Sorrento/Pompeii, florence and venice. How long is travel time from sorrento to pompeii? We're staying at the Hilton Sorrento. Is Capri worth going to in October? Is it still swimming season?

Sorrento to Pompeii is about 45 minutes on the Circumvesuviana train. Quick, easy trip.

Swimming... it depends. We swam in the ocean in early October two out of three days. The third day it rained and was cold. So, it just depends on what weather you end up with. Personally, I would take a day trip to Positano over Capri. If you have time to do both, even better.

[laura]

We did not swim in the Mediterranean in mid-late May when we went to Italy, b/c the water was freezing. The temp outside was pretty warm, but the water was not very inviting. We did "jump in" (b/c my MIL would not shut up about "doing it to say we did it"), but it wasn't comfortable to stay in and swim. This was in the Ravello/Amalfi area.

[HeatherFL]

If staying a few days in Italy and wanting to visit Florence and Venice (maybe Pisa if there is time) would you stay in Venice or Florence and then drive/train it to the other city?


Thanks!

~H.

[Rosebud]

Venice and Florence are about 3 hours apart by train. I don't think you can really do a day trip from one to the other-- you'll want to stay overnight.

I think you really only need 2 days to get a good feel for Venice, whereas you'll probably want to stay a little longer in Florence, particularly if you want to see many of the museums or day trip into Tuscany.

I saw your post in the France thread--- are you going to do Italy first or Southeast France first? Are you planning to fly into Florence and out of Paris? How long is your trip?

[HeatherFL]

Nope, no Paris. :) I've been there and it's nice, but just not for us this time around.

We're going to be in Europe a few weeks (October) and it's pretty flexible. Flying into Amsterdam, spending a few days there, then going to Brussels to hang in Belgium with friends (really want to take Todd to Brugge and Ghent.) Maybe a day trip into Luxembourg if time allows. Then we'll probably fly into Switzerland, make our way to Italy then down to France and off to Mallorca, Spain for five days (family/friend function). We'll fly home from Spain.

Rosebud03 Thanks so much for all of your help! I've been to Paris, Ireland, Belgium and Amsterdam, but that's it. REALLY looking forward to the rest of this trip. There's just so much to choose from it's so hard to decide!

~H.

[laura]

ITA about Venice/Florence - you would want to stay in either city while visiting, though I remember them being slightly closer by train (? - around 2 hours I thought?). And if you have time, I would also try to see Rome. In fact, if I were only going to see 1 city in Italy, that would be my choice. Florence is in between Rome and Venice on the train, FWIW.

[tlew12778]

I agree that Venice and Florence should be done as two stops but if you really want to stay in one place, I would stay in Bologna. It's btwn the two cities nad it's one of those cities that most tourists ignore but it has a lot to offer on its own.

I don't know if you have tickets to spain already, but you can fly Air Berlin from Rome to Ibiza then take the ferry to Mallorca.

[HeatherFL]

Thanks, tlew12778! We're actually going to France after Italy then to Mallorca. I'm hoping we can catch a flight directly there, HOPING rather than doing the ferry. I've got the flights to and from Europe booked, just not the actual European flights done. :)

~H.

[Annette]

I need hotel suggestions for Rome, Sorrento and Florence. Anyone have any that are under $100 per night? If you know of any hotels that sleep 4 that would be cool too. Thanks!

[Amanda77]

I don't have any specific hotels to recommend for you since it has been 4 years since we went to Italy. I do recommend Frommer's travel guides, though. We were there for 2 weeks and we booked our Rome hotel online in the states, but when we were actually there and wanted to go to other cities we just got out our Frommer's guide and called the places in it. We got nice, clean rooms with private bathrooms for under $100. The rooms were no frills type of rooms, but we spent such little time in them anyway it really didn't matter. They were clean, quiet and safe. Frommers also has a website www.frommers.com with a discussion board as well, lots of info, especially from people who have been there recently. Hope that helps!

[Annette]

Has anyone stayed at Bed & breakfasts in Rome or Florence? What can we expect? I've never stayed at a B & B before. I am finding they are a lot cheaper than some of the hotels.

[tlew12778]

I've never stayed in any since I stay with friends in general, but my ex-secretary's family owns one in Florence (actually, it's just a "bed", no breakfast). Usually hotels in Italy always offer continental breakfast. Sometimes it sucks, sometimes it's good. They usually serve brioche (like croissants), espresso, cappucino, tea, cereals, juice, water, toast, cheeses and deli meats.

[Rosebud]

Has anyone stayed at Bed & breakfasts in Rome or Florence? What can we expect? I've never stayed at a B & B before. I am finding they are a lot cheaper than some of the hotels.

I love staying at B&Bs in Europe because I find it's an excellent way to meet locals (the owners) and other travelers. Staying in a B&B often provides a more personal experience than a big hotel. I really enjoy breakfast in the morning with the other guests. Breakfasts are usually continental and have a variety of pastries, fruit, coffee and juice. Take your time and talk to the other people you meet at breakfast. Ask if they have any sightseeing or dining recommendations in the area. We've gotten some great tips this way!

Some B&Bs are very nice, some not-so-nice, so you should definitely check reviews on tripadvisor.com before you book. Most of the good B&Bs will have reviews there. You can also check the Fodors.com message boards to see if there's feedback there. Rick Steves also recommends a lot of B&Bs, but I've found his recommendations to be a little controversial and not always accurate. Try to get feedback from other travelers as well.

[msnicolea]

I need hotel suggestions for Rome, Sorrento and Florence. Anyone have any that are under $100 per night? If you know of any hotels that sleep 4 that would be cool too. Thanks!

I would search for hostels. We usually stay in at least 1-2 when we travel overseas, as they are so much more affordable. We only do private rooms (not dorm style), and the cost is so reasonable.

[Rosebud]

A couple of good Italy articles from Travel + Leisure Magazine:

Italian Renaissance: A little village in Abruzzi gets a $5 million-dollar facelift and a new boutique hotel. Article (http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/italian-renaissance)

The Other Side of Italy: Far from Capri's crush and Tuscany's throngs lie the untrammeled Adriatic beaches and pristine hill towns of Le Marche. Gini Alhadeff takes in venerable renaissance treasures—and some really superb fritto. Article (http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/the-other-side-of-italy)

Sempre Napoli: Is Naples frozen in a gilded past—or forging a new identity as Italy's most vibrantly authentic (and undiscovered) city? A captivated Guy Trebay has the answer: Both. Article (http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/sempre-napoli)

[Annette]

Bumping...

Ok this might sound like a stupid question, but is the tap water okay to drink? My friend says no, but I'm thinking its no big deal. I drank the water in Costa Rica without a problem, so I'm assuming in Italy its fine.

[tlew12778]

Yes. It's "potabile"... but most people do not drink it bc bottled water is so cheap (like a big 2L bottle costs EUR.20-.50). It's got a high mineral content and LT consumption of it can lend to kidney stones over time. Even cats get bottled here sometimes.

[Annette]

Wow, that is cheap for bottled water. Is it that cheap at restaurants too? In Italian, how would you phrase, "I would like tap water"?

[laura]

I don't think we were ever given tap water as an option in Italy - but then again, we weren't looking for it either. Usually they just ask if you'd like water and you need to specify "flat" if you don't want sparkling water.

[HeatherFL]

Just an FYI - maybe someone in Italy can chime in, but in some parts of Europe I've been to it is considered in very bad taste to request tap water in restaurants.

~H.

[tlew12778]

I would never ask for tap water. A bottle in a restaurant costs maybe 3 euro in Milan. It's probably less in other areas. A few restaurants serve filtered tap water. They won't tell you, but it shows up in a decanter instead of a bottle.

If you're in a bar and having espresso, you can ask for a glass of "acqua dal rubinetto" but no one really drinks it. I honestly don't even know why some serve it with coffee. It means that their espresso was not pulled correctly (although that's a whole other thread).

Flat water is "acqua naturale" and sparkling is "acqua frizzante".

One other thing... a couple years ago there was a problem with someone injecting bottles of water in the supermarket with poisin. When that happened, they passed a law that bars are not supposed to serve water by the glass. Theoretically, they should give you a 500ml bottle. Very few do this though and there have not been any cases since then.

[susie96]

Hoping someone will see this and can answer this for me. I'm going to Florence 3-3-07 for five nights. I assume it will be cool, but I'm making my Christmas wish list based on this trip and am getting confused. I figure this is a pretty transitional time just as it is here. It's hard enough to figure out what to wear at home when the weather is in between, much less when I'm out of the country!

1. What kind of coat/jacket would I need to take? Something transitional? I want a new wool coat anyway, but I doubted it could be used for this trip. Even if it's that cold, wouldn't I look too wintery?

2. Will I need to bother with any sandals? I'm guessing no. Even where I live (in TN) I am not usually in sandals that early, but that limits my options. Again, though, I don't want to be too wintery, right?

I will be with a group that will have a couple of nights that will be a bit dressy, and I'm sure we'll do all the walking, etc. that everyone does.

I think I will also post this in the Fashion Forum. Thanks so much for any help you can give me!!!

[tlew12778]

I answered your question in the other thread. HTH!

[Mrs. Alting]

I leavefor Italy Next Friday Oct. 6th! Yahoo! We will be in Rome or our 1 year anniversary. We will be ther for 3 day then we pick up our car we rented and off to Tuscany where we will stay here http://www.poggiacolle.com/ and we will be here for a week so we can visit all the wonderful cities. After that we drive to lake Como and stay here http://www.hotelauroralezzeno.com/default_eng.htm
I think we are here for 3 nights not sure my DH has done all the leg work. After that we are off to Milan and we have tickets to the opera :) We have not booked a hotel yet any suggestions?

Kristie

[tlew12778]

How much do you want to spend on a hotel and how many stars? The first time my parents stayed here I stuck them in the UNA Hotel Mediterraneo (http://www.unahotels.it/english/hotels/mediterraneo.htm). I chose that hotel bc it was down the street from my apt back then and they offered me a good rate bc I was their "neighbor". I think they paid 95 euro a night.

The second time they came (for the wedding) they booked the Hotel Windsor which I will not even recommend. It was sooooo bad, service-wise. I had rooms blocked at the Hotel Manin (http://www.hotelmanin.com/) bc DH's cousin works there and they gave us a great rate. My parents moved there afterwards.

I have had friends stay at the Star Hotel Rosa (http://www.starhotels.it/default.asp?prj=main&sec=star&menuid=34&lng=eng&src=gm_hotelsfinder_Rosa) as well. It's literally right behind the duomo. They found it last minute on expedia for like $85! The same friend(s) also stayed at the Grand Visconti Palace (http://www.grandviscontipalace.com/) while they were here on business.

All the hotels I mentioned are on the metro lines in or around the historical center. The last one is a bit in the middle of nowhere (it's a residential area) but it's very new which makes up for that.

What opera are you seeing? La Scala or another company? I know they are doing Don Giovanni next month.

[Mrs. Alting]

Thank you so much! We are looking to spend around 90 euro for a hotel so this will help alot! We are going to the Opera at La Scala. I have never been to an opera before it will be a great experience. I am so excited! :D

[tlew12778]

Ah. I am a diehard opera fan. Eventually, we will have season tickets when I can justify the $2500 expense per year :rolleyes:.

I highly, highly recommend that you read the libretto (not just a summary) of the opera before going. If you can, listen to it a couple times bc you will appreciate the arias soooo much more. You will also be able to watch the opera as opposed to reading the translation (you are lucky bc they *just* added this a couple years ago). Buy the book as a souvenir (15-20 euro IIRC) bc it also has the summary, playbill, and history of *that* opera at La Scala. Don Giovanni, if that is what you are seeing, is not the easiest opera to understand (none of Mozart's operas are IMO) so it will help to have a good idea of the story before you go. If you are going on a Friday or Saturday night, you should dress up pretty nicely. You will see some men in tuxes although not too many as it is not common here. I always wear an evening gown on the weekends. On the weekdays (which I try to avoid actually) you can wear business appropriate attire. I am assuming you are at the La Scala location and not at the Teatro degli Arcimboldi which is La Scala's secondary theatre... they may have stopped using it though.

[Mrs. Alting]

Thank you so much! I think we are going on the weekend. I was wondering if MY DH should wear his Tux. We bought a gourgeous vestementa tux for our wedding. And I think he should wear it but he does not want to pack it. He told me I could buy a dress there :) IF he does not wear it does he have to wear a jacket?

I have notice everyone said to buy comfort shoes :eek: I hate them. I wear heels all the time. I am at a loss I bought some cute wedges I think they might be OK. And I will bring some cute comfy sandals. I think the weather will still be nice. I noticed it should be in the 70's.

[tlew12778]

Yes he should definitely wear a suit and tie. If you want him to wear a tux, you can definitely use that as an excuse, but you will still probably only see a handful of ppl in tuxes (evening performance only obviously). Also, as stupid as this sounds, it also sort of depends on where you have your seats. If you are in the gallery or in the first 3 rings of box seats, fine, but if you are 4-5th ring, you won't find anyone in a tux up there.

Ballet flat are really in here. Especially metallic ones. I wear heals most of the time as well. You will probably notice that in Milan, a LOT of women wear heals ll the time. In the other cities, they can be a little more practical ;). I actually read an interesting article in Natl Geo about how the height and shape of shoes is an indicator of wealth. It was an interesting socio-economic concept and would work well for Milan (being the richest city in Italy). Anyway, I digress. If you can walk on cobblestones with heals/wedges, go for it. I would pack at least one pair of flats just in case though... or you could always buy them here :p.

[hokiegirl]

The best tip I got when I went to Italy is to order the house wine. Cheaper and never had a bad glass of wine.

[tlew12778]

My brother actually agrees with that. He normally cannot stand Italian wines in the US but he said he really enjoyed each glass of house wine while he was here. It really depends on how much you drink though bc bottles are cheap. A glass might cost you 4 euro and a bottle 12 so if you are both drinking and you can finish off a bottle, it could be cheaper to go that route.

[Mrs. Alting]

or you could always buy them here :p.

I plan on doing lots of this. Thank you for all of you advice.

[Annette]

Bumping... We are back from our two week trip. It was awesome! We had some amazing food and saw lots of cool sites. I enjoyed walking around florence and venice. Pompeii and St. Peter's Basilica were just amazing.

We didn't have any issues with pick pocketors /gypsies, etc. You can always find a free bathroom at McDonalds.

[laura]

I think the wine depends on which part of Italy. Along the Amalfi Coast, for example, the house wine, um... needs food. ;)

[cynder]

I am not going to Italy but I thought this was a useful article:

Just How Good Can Italy Get? (http://www.nytimes.com/2006/10/25/dining/25ital.html?_r=1&8dpc&oref=slogin) NY Times subscription req'd.

I so want Frank Bruni's job.

[Sashi]

Hi girls,

I originally posted in the other thread for Easter travel to Italy but found this thread finally today!

That being said, I have a question. We originally talked about going to Italy for 2.5 weeks the beginning of May. Originally when my DH called out travel agent yesterday he told her 14 nights/15 days including travel. I said 2.5 weeks and somehow it got translated as such. So her original itinerary was:

Venice 3 nights (city tour)
Florence 3 nights (city tour)
Rome 4 nights (city tour)
Amalfi (Positano) 4 nights (Day trip to Pompeii and day trip to Capri)
Train in between cities

I emailed her back and said, he was mistaken, we wanted 2.5 weeks so adding 2/3 nights would be great (INCLUDING TRAVEL!). She came back with this:

Venice 3 nights (city tour)
Florence 3 nights (city tour)
Tuscany 3 nights (with car)
Rome 4 nights (city tour)
Amalfi (Positano) 4 nights (Day trip to Pompeii and day trip to Capri)
train in between cities

No talk about travel, etc. I love the 17 night itinerary, who wouldn't, but I need to maximize the weekends and minimize the vacation days I need to use at work so I have to ask for actual dates. I'm getting so frustrated.

First, my question is whether you think this itinerary is ok? Either one. Is there a way to add some time in Tuscany on the 14 night trip? Will I regret not spending the extra 3 nights in Italy? We plan on starting to try around that time for children so this will be the last time for Europe for a while. I just don't know what to do. I feel like the travel agent (a friend) is being a moron by not giving me more information to make a decision.

[Annette]

This is going to be quick, but your itinerary was very similar to ours except we crammed it all in to 2 weeks.

We flew into Rome and then hopped a train to Sorrento where we stayed 3 nights. We did day trips to Pompeii/herculaneum and Capri. We didn't go to Positano so I can't tell you much about that. But I loved Sorrento.
Then we went up to Florence for 3 nights, then rented a car to drive in the country side and ended up spending the night in Ravenna. Then we headed up to Venice / pordenone and stayed with my friend's aunt there for 3 nights and finally headed back to Rome, stopping in Orvieto for a couple hours and stayed in Rome for 2 nights in the city and the final night at the airport Hilton.

Since you are doing that many cities and taking the train between all of them, I would recommend taking a carry on size suitcase and a day pack. Many of the stations lack elevators/escalators. I am sure you can find a laudromat somewhere along the way too.

The trip was great! Hope you have a great time. I can give you more details later if you need. I have to head to work now.

[tlew12778]

It depends on what you like doing. I can do Florence in one day if I only want to site see and not actually go into all the major museums. You can do Venice in 2 days the same way. So if you cut out days in those major cities, you would have time to do the Tuscan countryside.

However, I would take a look at a map and figure out how much you want to see of the Tuscan countryside. Figure on two small towns a day more or less. Some towns are far apart too so you should plan well. If you want to see a lot of towns, take the longer itinerary. I would honestly take the extra time. Kids aren't going to like touring vineyards in the future you know?

I would probably consider driving to Rome since it is only 1.5 hours from Florence. If you are down south in the countryside, even better. Otherwise you would have to trek back to Florence to get the train to Rome.

[laura]

Hi girls,

I can't seem to find where the other Italy thread went! :(

That being said, I have a question. We originally talked about going to Italy for 2.5 weeks the beginning of May. Originally when my DH called out travel agent yesterday he told her 14 nights/15 days including travel. I said 2.5 weeks and somehow it got translated as such. So her original itinerary was:

Venice 3 nights (city tour)
Florence 3 nights (city tour)
Rome 4 nights (city tour)
Amalfi (Positano) 4 nights (Day trip to Pompeii and day trip to Capri)
Train in between cities

I emailed her back and said, he was mistaken, we wanted 2.5 weeks so adding 2/3 nights would be great (INCLUDING TRAVEL!). She came back with this:

Venice 3 nights (city tour)
Florence 3 nights (city tour)
Tuscany 3 nights (with car)
Rome 4 nights (city tour)
Amalfi (Positano) 4 nights (Day trip to Pompeii and day trip to Capri)
train in between cities

No talk about travel, etc. I love the 17 night itinerary, who wouldn't, but I need to maximize the weekends and minimize the vacation days I need to use at work so I have to ask for actual dates. I'm getting so frustrated.

First, my question is whether you think this itinerary is ok? Either one. Is there a way to add some time in Tuscany on the 14 night trip? Will I regret not spending the extra 3 nights in Italy? We plan on starting to try around that time for children so this will be the last time for Europe for a while. I just don't know what to do. I feel like the travel agent (a friend) is being a moron by not giving me more information to make a decision.

My first ? would be: where do you fly in and out of? In to Venice and out of Naples? Or RT from, say, Rome and necessary travel time is omitted?

I like the second itinerary, but if you need some wiggle room I don't think more than 2 nights max is necessary in Venice and I haven't personally been to Florence, but I would imagine you could get by on just 2 nights there also. For that matter, you could probably get by w/ only 3 nights on the Amalfi Coast, too, but 4 wouldn't be bad either w/ those 2 day trips. The Mediterranean will be *freezing*, however, so if you were considering this a 'beachy' part of the trip, I wouldn't. Will you have a car on the Amalfi Coast? It may be hard to get around, otherwise, depending on where your hotel is located.

I don't think it's unnatural to ask for the intinerary broken down by dates with travel logistics included. In past my itineraries from travel agents has been very specific about train X day/time to X city for X nights at X hotel, etc.

[Sashi]

Since you are doing that many cities and taking the train between all of them, I would recommend taking a carry on size suitcase and a day pack. Many of the stations lack elevators/escalators. I am sure you can find a laudromat somewhere along the way too.

I hadn't even thought of this! Now i'm nervous. I'm not the type to 'underpack' by any means so I never thought about having to LUG the luggage all over. Excuse the pun.......

HMMMM........

[Sashi]

My first ? would be: where do you fly in and out of? In to Venice and out of Naples? Or RT from, say, Rome and necessary travel time is omitted?

Will you have a car on the Amalfi Coast? It may be hard to get around, otherwise, depending on where your hotel is located.

I don't think it's unnatural to ask for the intinerary broken down by dates with travel logistics included. In past my itineraries from travel agents has been very specific about train X day/time to X city for X nights at X hotel, etc.


She promised us all this information "in a couple days" and that was yesterday. I emailed her back and just said "It's impossible for me to make a decision based on your 'itinerary' and she said it was just a starting point (nice of her to point that out in the beginning!)"

I also asked her to recommend hotels with some sort of internet access because of my husband's work priorities and she said that it will be hard to come by. Does that make sense?

[laura]

Hmm, it depends on your price points, I think. Nicer hotels we stayed at did have internet access - less nice places, generally not. I would recommend he get a GSM phone and research cybercafes (they are not hard to find) if he needs to check in regularly. Getting internet access at your hotel will certainly not be impossible, but it isn't as easy to come by as it is here in the US.

ITA w/ Annette on the luggage, also. Use every bit of packing prowess you possess to fit your stuff into the smallest luggage you possibly can. Trust me, you will thank us when you are schlepping your luggage onto a train for the millionth time on Day 12 of your trip.

[houseblend]

I also asked her to recommend hotels with some sort of internet access because of my husband's work priorities and she said that it will be hard to come by. Does that make sense?

Internet is definitely not as prevalent in Italy as it is in the U.S. My husband and I need internet access due to our work, too, so this was a huge challenge for us while traveling in Italy. Keep in mind that when a hotel site claims to have "internet access," it often consists of a computer in the lobby that costs 10 euro an hour. If your needs go beyond that, I would email the hotel and ask more specific what kind of internet access is provided. Assume to pay between 10 and 25 euro an hour, though. There are certainly hotels that do offer high-speed in your room, but like laura said, these will be the pricier hotels.

Internet cafes we saw also mostly were using the computers at the facility with similar going rates.

The poor internet access, of course, is always a good excuse for your hubby to encourage his work to leave him alone for a couple of weeks. :D

[Sashi]

Hi Ladies,

I got my itinerary and I wanted to share it with you experienced ladies for help! I have put NO 'parameters' around my travel agent who sent this to us.

May 3 - 20, 2007 PLEASE CRITIQUE FOR ME!!!! I would forever in your debt(s).

Hotel Colombina Venice Hotel (http://colombina.hotelinvenice.com/venice-hotels/main-en.htm)
Location VENICE
Count: 1 Room: Standard Accommodation: DOUBLE
Check In/Out Thursday, May 03, 2007 -- Sunday, May 06, 2007 ( 3 Nights)
Remarks Includes tax, service charges and buffet breakfast
Requests Honeymoon VIP Status requested
The Hotel Colombina overlooks the canal with an enchanting and exclusive view onto the famous Bridge of Sighs, only a few steps away from St. Mark's Square. The Colombina is proud to offer you its elegant furnishing in old Venetian style together with all modern comforts. The 32 rooms are equipped with mini-bar, hair dryer, air conditioning, telephone with direct line, safe, Sat-TV, Pay TV, radio and internet plugs and private water landing. Breakfast room, American bar, reading room and meeting room.

Venice Public Walking Tour with Gondola Ride
Location VENICE
Count: 2 Valid on: Friday, May 04, 2007 - One Day
Notes Enjoy a walking tour of St. Mark's Square and learn the history that lies behind the walls of its most famous landmarks; the Basilica and its Byzantine heritage, the Doge's Palace and its adjoining prisons. Then, leave the square to discover the 'real Venice' by entering a labyrinth of narrow passageways and alleys where a magical city of meandering canals punctuated by delicate bridges awaits you. After a walk of about two hours, you will have free time at disposal for lunch and to relax before starting as per below schedule your cruise down the Grand Canal and the smaller canals while your guide introduces you to the history that lies behind the many buildings that line their banks. Grand Canal Cruise schedule: From 05march to 14october-daily at 17:30; From 15october to 11november-Mon to Sat at 14:30;on Sundays at 16:30; From 12nov to 31dec-Tue/Fri/Sat at 14:30

Venice to Florence, 2nd Class Rail
Count: 2 Valid on: Sunday, May 06, 2007 - One Day

Hotel Porta Faenza Website (http://portafaenza.hotelinfirenze.com/main_en.html?source=)
Location FLORENCE
Count: 1 Room: Standard Accommodation: DOUBLE
Check In/Out Sunday, May 06, 2007 -- Thursday, May 10, 2007 ( 4 Nights)
Remarks Includes taxes, services and breakfast daily
Requests Honeymoon VIP Status requested
Notes The 12th-century medieval well discovered during renovations has now become a focal point in the lobby. Two small pensioni were combined and a ground floor expanded to create this hotel, which is good value; rooms and bathrooms are spacious and decorated in Florentine style. Italian Antonio Lelli and his Canadian wife Rose go out of their way to make you feel at home. www.hotelportafaenza.it. 25 rooms. In-room safes, cable TV, in-room data ports, bar, babysitting, laundry facilities, Internet, meeting room, parking (fee), some pets allowed, no-smoking floor.

Tour 1a - Visit of Florence-Morning
Location FLORENCE
Count: 2 Valid on: Monday, May 07, 2007 - One Day
Notes Tour departs at 09:30 from Piazza della Stazione (At the corner that leads to Piazza dell'Unita) and returns 3 hours later.

Florence to Rome, 2nd Class Rail
Count: 2 Valid on: Thursday, May 10, 2007 - One Day

Hotel Adriano Hotel Adriano website (http://www.hoteladriano.com/)
Location ROME
Count: 1 Room: Standard Accommodation: DOUBLE
Check In/Out Thursday, May 10, 2007 -- Wednesday, May 16, 2007 ( 6 Nights)
Remarks Includes tax, service and breakfast daily
Requests Honeymoon VIP Status requested
Notes The Hotel Adriano enjoys an ideal location in the historic centre of Rome, a few steps from the Pantheon, Piazza Navona, Piazza di Spagna, and the most elegant shopping streets; a good starting point to visit the wonderful Eternal City. The hotel is hosted by a magnificent building of the 17th century, completely renewed to offer comfort and charm. Managed by the Ricci family since its establishment more than 40 years ago, the hotel has just been renovated. With their relaxing and cosy atmosphere, the rooms are a perfect blend of design, tradition, and attention to detail, providing both refined elegance and a home away from home. Our guests can take pleasure in each and every part of our hotel; from the bar area and the winter garden, to the elegant and cosy bedrooms, to the breakfast rooms, where a rich buffet is served every morning, and the well-equipped meeting rooms. Our discrete, professional and friendly staff are constantly at work making our guests feel at home. The are 80 bedrooms, all with an elegant and discrete atmosphere, are fitted out with all the most modern comforts: satellite TV and direct internet connection, telephone, air conditioning, safe, minibar and hair-dryer.

Tour 2 - Ancient Rome
Location ROME
Count: 2 Valid on: Friday, May 11, 2007 - One Day
Notes Tour departs Vastours Terminal (Via Piemonte 34) at 3.00pm and returns 3 hours later. Please report to the receptionist inside the Vastours Terminal Office. This half day tour focuses on some of the major sights of ancient Rome. Crossing the Quirinal Square, with the Presidential Palace, we arrive at Piazza Venezia at the heart of the city with its Monument to Victor Emanuel II, also called 'Vittoriano'. We walk up to Capitol Square, designed by Michelangelo, and take in the magnificent view over the Roman Forum and Palatine. Afterwards we stop in front of the Colosseum from which point you can see the Arches of Constantine and Tito and the Temple of Venus and Rome. Passing the Pyramid Cestia, we arrive at St. Paul's Outside the Walls which we visit to see the site where the Apostle of the People was buried.

Vatican City - 2-hour guided walking tour
Location ROME
Count: 2 Valid on: Saturday, May 12, 2007 - One Day
Notes Days of Operation: Daily
Departure : Vatican Museum
Start Time: 10:30.
Walking tour of the Vatican Museum. Morning tour of the treasures of the Vatican, Including the Sistine Chapel and the Basilica of St. Peter. Appropriate dress should be worn to places if worship.

Tour 1 - Monumental Rome
Location ROME
Count: 2 Valid on: Sunday, May 13, 2007 - One Day
Notes Tour departs Vastours Terminal at 08.30am daily and returns 3 hours later. A comprehensive tour of the major monuments of historical Rome. This tour begins by passing through the Via Veneto, made famous by Fellini's Dolce Vita film. Before reaching Via Nazionale we cross Piazza della Republica with Najadi's Fountain. Our walk through the historical centre starts with the Trevi Fountain and continues to Piazza Navona, built on the ancient Domitian Stadium with the famous Fountain of the Four Rivers, Bernini's masterpiece. Along the way we admire Piazza Colonna so called due to the Column of Marco Aurelio. Visit the interior of the Pantheon which was built in the First Century B.C. with the biggest dome in the world as requested by Emperor Hadrian. Continue by coach to St. Peter's Square passing Castel St. Angelo. We visit the Basilica of St. Peter's to admire, among other treasures, the Pieta' by Michelangelo. Entrance to the Pantheon and the Basilica of St. Peter included. During religious ceremonies St. Peter's Basilica may be closed to the public. Appropriate dress should be worn in places of worship.

Rome to Naples Rail, 2nd Class
Count: 2 Valid on: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 - One Day

Hotel Punta Regina Hotel Punta Regina website (http://www.puntaregina.com/flash/index.htm)
Location POSITANO
Count: 1 Room: Superior - Accommodation: DOUBLE
Check In/Out Wednesday, May 16, 2007 -- Sunday, May 20, 2007 ( 4 Nights)
Remarks Includes tax, service & buffet breakfast
Requests Honeymoon VIP Status requested
Notes Hotel Punta Regina opened for the season 2000-2001, the result of the remodeling of an ancient Pensione. The building lies on Via Pasitea, the main street in town, and is easily accessible. Built on four levels, the Hotel Punta Regina has a breath-taking view of the Mediterranean Waters that have made Positano famous. While relaxing from your terrace, not only will you enjoy the sight of the beautiful Island of Li Galli and the Clavel Tower, but also the many boats sailing in the blue colored waters. The service is attentive and friendly. The centre of town, shops, restaurants and beaches are all within walking distance. Walk along the main road or through enchanting steps that reveal the hidden side of town, where all private homes with flowers and beautiful colours make this town one of the most cherished in the world. Punta Regina offers a lovely panoramic terrace on the fourth floor, from which you can soak in the breath-taking view whilst enjoying our breakfast buffet, served here in the Cafeteria Thirteen lavish rooms, among them Suites and Junior suites, all are elegantly furnished, from the marble bathooms to the antique furnishings that make each room unique. The care and details makes them particularly beautiful for long stays. The service is attentive and friendly.

Then fly to Munich and then home. Critique away! I mainly am concerned with the following:

1) Hotels are *NICE* (meaning clean and best buys, but don't have to be 5 star) not too far away from site-seeing and in a good area of the city.
2) Making the most of our time in all those places
3) Tours she included (i'm not sure if they are just included with the hotel or they cost extra money) are worth while and at the right times!? I've heard you need to get places early.
4) She didn't leave anything out. I think I told her Tuscany for a few nights and less in Venice/Florence but I don't see that booked anywhere???

[tlew12778]

I would ask her to ensure that all the bathrooms are ensuite. As archaic as this may sound, not all rooms have ensuite bathrooms in Italy.

The tous are probably good considering you will be on HM and do now want to be stressed planning stuff. Plus non are all day so they leave you with the rest of the day to do stuff.

I also do not see enough time for the tuscan countryside. It could be that she has you staying in Florence and doing day trips from there, but 4 days still is not enough to do it all IMO.

[Sashi]

I would ask her to ensure that all the bathrooms are ensuite. As archaic as this may sound, not all rooms have ensuite bathrooms in Italy.

I will do! Thank you for the suggestion! I couldn't imagine our faces when they told us there wasn't! :eek:


I also do not see enough time for the tuscan countryside. It could be that she has you staying in Florence and doing day trips from there, but 4 days still is not enough to do it all IMO.

My number 1 question for her was this!

I liked that the tours were small but I was also told that we should do early morning tours around Rome because lines get out of control, is this true?

[tlew12778]

Personally I have never done a tour but my impression is that they all have slots booked in advance so you don't stand on the normal lines. You will want to ask about that probably. I know that here in Milan all the tour groups have bookings for very specific times so the groups do not actually wait in line.

[justHB]

... I haven't personally been to Florence, but I would imagine you could get by on just 2 nights there also. FWIW, we spent two nights in Florence in November and I thought that was just enough. We spent five nights in Rome. If I had our trip to do all over again, this is what I would have wanted.

6 nights in Rome
2 nights in Florence
2 nights in Tuscany
2 nights in Venice
2 nights in Positano

Also, don't be too worried about travel time in between cities. The train between Rome and Florence was only 90 minutes, which around these parts is akin to some people's commute.

[laura]

I could have sworn I posted here yesterday, but I guess not. I'm mostly interested in where you fly into/out of and what you do for transfers. Ie. you fly into Naples but you are staying in Positano - how do you get there?

Re: bathrooms - in looking at the websites for the hotels, it seems like they all do have en suite bathrooms. You could double check just to be sure, but we stayed several less-nice places and we had our own bathroom everywhere.

When we went to Italy we only did a tour in Rome of Vatican/Sistine Chapel, and we only did that b/c tours skip the line and we saved a lot of time. We had a car on the Amalfi Coast so we drove to Pompeii, but if we didn't have a car, I would have done a tour for that also (or in the future I would even consider a day tour from Rome to Pompeii and back). I wouldn't personally recommend any tours in Rome, though, b/c I loved just wandering around, exploring things ourselves, etc. Plus if you are in a tour, you automatically come with a huge group of people, so you will never have the chance of seeing something not crowded. We just happened to visit the Colosseum when it was practically empty and that was just cool in it's own way. Plus with a tour you miss a lot of chances to just see something cool along the way, so you break off to check it out. That is what I really loved about Rome.

[Daisy]

DH and I stayed in Positano last spring for 10 days. I highly recommend Salvatore at DriveAmalfi or info@driveamalfi.com for tours and/or airport/train transfers. We've used him for tours and transfers both times we've been to the Amalfi Coast. The drive from Naples to Positano is around 45-60 minutes depending on traffic. I would not recommend having a car in this area - parking can be limited and expensive and the Amalfi Coast highway can be nuts. We got around just fine with the passenger ferries, buses and trains (for visiting Pompeii). The public transportation is easy to figure out and inexpensive.

I don't recall the Hotel Punta Regina, we stayed at the Covo dei Saraceni.

FWIW, I also think 2-3 days in Florence is fine to see the major attractions.

[Sashi]

I'm mostly interested in where you fly into/out of and what you do for transfers. Ie. you fly into Naples but you are staying in Positano - how do you get there?

We fly from Philadelphia to Rome from 6:40pm to 8:40am on May 2/3, 2007 THEN
fly Rome to Venice from 1:15pm to 2:15pm on May 3, 2007
On Sunday May 20, 2007 we fly from Naples to Munich from 8:15am to 10:15am
THEN
from Munic to Philaelphia 12:30pm to 4pm

[Sashi]

I don't recall the Hotel Punta Regina, we stayed at the Covo dei Saraceni.

I read about that hotel on Trip Advisor, would you recommend it highly?

FWIW, I also think 2-3 days in Florence is fine to see the major attractions.

Thank you! :)

[Sashi]

Have any of you had any great stays in Rome that you could recommend to me? Our itinerary so far has the Hotel Adriano (http://www.hoteladriano.com/eng/index.htm) as our hotel in Rome for 5 nights. The tripadvisor.com reviews say that it's an excellent location but the rooms are quite small, etc, etc. I'd prefer both. I'm not sure the price range but they did say it was a 3 star hotel in Italy.

Any suggestions? Same location, different hotel?

[laura]

We stayed in a great hotel in Rome right down the street from the Piazza di Spagna, but I don't recall the name right off hand. I might have it at work, though, I will check tomorrow.

FWIW, your flights sound fine, I just wanted to make sure you weren't flying RT out of the same location b/c that would be a logistical nightmare.

Like Daisy, I also wouldn't recommend driving on the Amalfi Coast. It is seriously insane. We only had a car b/c my FIL was driving and he is from Italy, so he's just as crazy as all the drivers there. :p But we would never rent a car there ourselves - plus they are mostly (all?) standards, bah.

[tlew12778]

One other thing to consider - is your outbound flight with Alitalia? If so, I would ask if you can change that. Alitalia has been having financial problems for YEARS bc the European Union will not all the state to bail them out of bankruptcy. They are forever going on strike. Strikes are always announced ahead of time, but I would not want that to ruin your HM.

Changing planes in Germany is not that bad. At least you do not have to collect all your stuff and go through customs like you would if you had to change in the US.

[Sashi]

I think our flights are with US Airways and Lufthanasa (SP?). Did I say Alitalia, if so I'm sorry!

[tlew12778]

No I just assumed Alitalia bc there are very few companies with direct flights to Italy. Most are in code-sharing as well, which I think is actually your case bc didn't Delta merge with US Airways?

Lufthansa is good. They are actually my preferred airline when I fly back and forth. At least you have personal TVs and the food is decent.

[Sashi]

Lufthansa is good. They are actually my preferred airline when I fly back and forth. At least you have personal TVs and the food is decent.

Something else to look forward to!!!! :D

I'm looking into the Best Bed & Breakfast Vatican (http://www.bestbb.it/eng_camere.htm). Any thoughts?

[justHB]

Here's the TripAdvisor link to my review of the Residenza Antica Roma, which is where we stayed in November.
http://rome-hotels.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187791-d277161-r6628777-Residenza_Antica_Roma-Rome_Lazio.html

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me or post here.

FWIW, I wouldn't recommend staying in Vatican City. IMHO, most everything - except the Vatican and Castel St. Angelo - you're going to want to see/walk to is in what I was told is referred to by locals as the City Center or the Ancient City.