January trip to Prague & Czech Republic - Come give me your ideas/comments/etc.

[sarahncraig]

DH and I are going to Prague and the Czech Republic for 10 days. We are flying in and out of Prague and already have a hotel reserved in Prague. For those of you who have been to Prague, what are the must-sees? We also want to venture outside of Prague, like to Karlovy Vary. Which cities should we do day trips to and which should we stay a night or two? Help! :D

[bookworm]

It has been years since I have been there, but bundle up and walk around the old town (Is is Old Town Square?). And Prague castle. It's a really beautiful city.

[keska]

I love Prague! I even got married there. Most of the interesting stuff is right in old town. I'd say the castle and Charles Bridge are the biggest sights, then the Jewish Quarter. They have a museum about the communist era which had a really good film about the fall of the communist regime when I was there. The museum itself wasn't that great, though. 10 days is a long time to be in Prague. For day trips you have lots of choices:

-Karlovy Vary is cute but very small, so I wouldn't plan on spending lots of time there. Once you look at the hot springs and walk around a bit, there's really only shopping to do. It's mostly touristy type shops, lots of jewelry.

-The ossuary at Kutna Hora is also popular.

-If you want to go farther afield, Budapest is an 8 hour train ride. There's also an overnight train to Krakow. You can ride and sleep on the train (get a coupe) and then spend the day in Krakow and take the evening train back. I did that and am glad I did. Auschwitz is outside Krakow and there are lots of tour buses running out there. Plus, downtown Krakow is very nice.

If you have any more questions, let me know. I spent a few months studying there in 2003.

[am_81]

One word about Prague in January -- COLD!!! I was there last January and I dont think I had ever been so cold in my whole life. Admittedly, I can be a wuss about the cold, but even my born-and-bred NYCer FH who's always telling me to "suck it up" was freezing. I have an absolutely ridiculous picture of me completely bundled up -- tights, jeans, tank top, long-sleeved shirt, thikn turtleneck sweater, long wool overcoat, boots, gloves, long scarf and a hat -- and my hands and feet were still numb!!!!! It was especially bad up at the castle, but I think it was mostly the wind.

One recommendation -- Definitely do a walking tour. In the morning, all the guides gather near the Astronomical Clock in the Old Town Square. There are several groups that do the guides (City Walks is the only one I can remember off the top of my head, but I'm sure your hotel will have plenty of pamphlets) and we just randomly picked a group and were very pleased. I cant remember how much it cost (not much, IIRC) and it ended up being around 3 hours long. We started out walking near the Charles Bridge, took the tram up the mountain, took a quick tour of the castle grounds and St. Vitus Cathedral. Along the way, the guide told us a lot about the history of the city, the bridge, etc. and we ended up learning an impressive amount. We were there shortly after they decided to join the EU and were able to get an insider's perspective of that too. Oh, and one of the most valuable things we learned form her -- where to get good, authentic Czech food on the cheap. I think one of the places we went to, the entire bill amounted to about $5 US.

The majority of our trip we just wandered around, ducking into churches and cafes when it got too cold to bear. One totally "tourist-y" thing we did was try Absinthe at a bar. I'm sure we looked like dopes getting all excited about it, but it was fun to go home and say "I tried Absinthe!" Also, if you are into crystal at all, the shops are full of beautiful pieces.

As for taking trips outside the city, definitely research that before you go. I had wanted to go to one of the other castles, but found out that some were closed during the winter. I wouldve loved to visits surrounding towns anyway, but since we were only there for a few days, it didnt make much sense.

Also, if you dont mind being a bit adventureous, try to take public transportation to/from the airport. We were nervous when we landed so took a cab; if I was doing my math correctly, it was about on par with NYC cabs if not a bit more. On the way back to the airport we took the subway/bus and only spent a couple bucks. A bit nerve-wracking at first, but it was worth it.

[srnka]

I agree with the above poster. It will be COLD. So dress up. But Prague is beautiful in any time of the year. As mentioned before, most of the famous sights are in the old town - the astronomical clock (Orloj), teh old town square, the town hall, the jewish getto with the jewish cemetery, the Pulver tower, St.Vencesav square, the Museum, the main shopping street Na Prikope, the Opera,... Then you can cross over the Carl's bridge to Mala Strana with it's quaint houses and beautiful river side. And then up to the caste. An other nice place to visit is the tower at Petriny.
If you want to venture outside Prague I would recommend Brno (only a 2-3hour train ride away), Plzen (with it's world famous brewery), Ceske Budejovice or Cesky Krumlov (wonderfully preserved medieval town centre). Also worth a visit it Terezin where there is a museum in the former nazi concentration camp.

Oh yeah, and be wary of the cab drivers. They are known for ripping tourists. Especially from the airport. Take an airport bus, which will bring you to the centre.

[emmjay]

I agree with the suggestions of everyone else (except I didn't think it was *that* cold in Jan 04 - maybe we just got lucky!). Another side trip is the university town of Olomouc (pronounced "Oh-lo-moutz"). Not many tourists, and it's like a mini-Prague. Plus they have the best hot chocolate and desserts there in all of the little cafes.

[mom_to_zoe]

There was just an article about Prague in a recent issue of Gourmet magazine. I would definitely see if you can find a copy of it. It had some great restaurant recommendations. Another great thing to do in Prague, I have heard, is listen to classical music. Apparently there are performances all the time and it is very inexpensive.

[Leia]

I was just there last month, and agree with all comments above. Do go to a concert. There are so many advertised - you'll be handed 1,000 flyers on the street. We picked one based on the musical selection and the venue. Others thing I enjoyed were the Blacklight Theatre (I saw Aspect of Alice) and the Alphonse Mucha museum.

Other thoughts - I hated the Rick Steves guidebook, so I wouldn't use that. I would also recommend a walking tour, and I would advice stopping and chatting with each of the many guides so that you are comfortable with their projection and ability to communicate. We took an evening ghost tour, which was fun.

Oh - and get a good map, but don't buy it at the airport (such a ripoff) - you can probably get a decent one at your hotel.

You are going to have the best time!

[sarahncraig]

Other thoughts - I hated the Rick Steves guidebook, so I wouldn't use that.

Dang! That is the one we have. Why did you hate it? Which one would you recommend?

Thanks, everyone, for all of your feedback. Keep your comments coming!

[sarahncraig]

There was just an article about Prague in a recent issue of Gourmet magazine.

Does this look like the article? (http://www.epicurious.com/features/news/dailydish/120205)

[LalaKini]

We were in Prague last May and we loved it :) Other than the suggestions that you've already been given, I would suggest trying an opera (we saw Madame Butterfly at the State Opera House just off of St. Wenceslas square). It was great, and CHEAP, especially compared to the maor operas here or in the other major music cities over there. Also - make sure to drink LOTS of yummy czech beer (i'm not a beer drinker and I loved the beer). And at about $1-2 per Liter, you can't beat it! We actually liked their dark beer the best - almost sweet - better than the pilsners that they are so famous for. Shop for some bohemian crystal. Just get lost in the city. And the food, while HEAVY, is damn good. Make sure you try the goulash at least once. It's not like a stew, more like slow cooked beef with lots of gravy and bread dumplings to sop it all up. That will taste so good in the cold :)

Have fun!! It's a great and beautiful city :)

[wander_woman]

I absolutely love Prague! It's my favorite European city. I studied there for a summer in college and had the best experience. You've already gotten a lot of good advice. I pretty much agree with what everyone else has said. My favorite part of town is Mala Strana. I love just walking around the little alleys and soaking everything in. It's nice and quiet and out of the way of the toursist crowds. I don't know if it'll be as much fun in the cold, but I used to spend hours just walking aimlessly on that side of town. There are some cute cafes there as well. Of course, you have to visit the Castle, Old Town Square, and the Jewish quarter (it's worth it to pay for the full pass that lets you in to the various synagogues and the cemetery). I also second the suggestion to take a few days to visit Krakow or Budapest. They're both pretty reasonable train rides away. 10 days in Prague is a lot. I would suggest spending a few days in the countryside and maybe 2-3 in Krakow or Budapest. Have fun!

[thompso2]

I loved Prague, and you've gotten lots of great advice already. I thought I would recommend a restaurant in Prague that I loved when I was there. It's called U Arkitektu, and it's located in the vaulted cellars of the Architect's Club at Betlemske Namesti (Bethlehem Square). The food is great (modern Czech cuisine) and the space is really lovely.

[Vishenka69]

I agree that Prague and Czech Republic in general will be freezing that time of year. Dress warmly, think skiing outfit (minus puffy pants) warm. Also 4-5 days in Prague is more than enough, definitely explore the country side or some neighboring countries. Karlovy Vary is a summer resort town and will be pretty much shut down in winter (you might find one or two hotels still open but it'll be a waste of time going). When planning to visit the Jewish sites, make sure it's not on Friday or Saturday, everything will be closed. We found the best food to be outside of the touristy center, in small local restaurants. Don't worry about not speaking Czech, every off the beaten place restaurant we visited had a menu in 5 languages.

[GoCougs]

*Sigh*

I don't have any advice to give you....I'm just really envious that you're going to Prague!! I've ALWAYS wanted to go there.....have fun!!

[Leia]

Dang! That is the one we have. Why did you hate it? Which one would you recommend?

Sorry I didn't revisit this thread before the holiday! I have had friends who used the Rick Steves Prague guidebook and liked it very much, so take my comments with a grain of salt. I have used RS guides to supplement other guides in the past, but it was mistake in this case to rely on it as my sole guidebook.

On this trip I was traveling with a friend who lives in Europe and we both agreed RS Prague was worthless. The maps are not useful, many of the directions were poor, and it didn't have a lot of practical data we were looking for. If RS didn't like something, he pretty much seemed to gloss over it or not address it at all. RS also made some suggestions that I felt were wrong and costly (in terms of money and time). I literally stopped relying on the book as a practical guide after one day.

Thankfully, our hotel had free internet because every day I was looking on message boards, as well as the frommers and fodors sites for tips and recommendations. Unfortunately, I don't have another recommendation - I didn't buy another guidebook during the trip. I would suggest reading the Amazon reviews of various books and seeing what past travelers have said. In general, for me, this book wasn't a good fit for my lifestyle and budget (and mind you, we were not in anything approaching a hostel). I do think that guidebooks can vary by city in terms of value - and for Prague, I do not think RS is strong enough to stand on it's own.

On the plus side, I thought the restaurant recommendations were good, and the commentary on significant landmarks was interesting. Also, it wasn't a very heavy book to cart around. :rolleyes:

[pride&prejudice]

I loved Prague! Sorry if I'm late on this, wish I had seen it before the holidays. I was there in January about 3-4 years ago (geez time flies!). I second everything that the PP's have mentioned, especially the clothing. Also try to get small bills if you pay cash. We had the problem that when we got our money, they only gave huge bills, and then no place wanted to break it!

[sarahncraig]

Thanks so much everyone! I'm getting really excited - we leave in four days!!! We've decided to go to Vienna for two nights so if anyone has any feedback for that city, let me know. I've been there twice before but it has been 10 years.

I hope everyone had a great holiday!

[katkama]

Probably it is too late for you, but I live in Prague ... I think most important things were already said - warm cloths is necessary, we have snow here and temperature around 0°C. I recommend to take a taxi from the airport (call e.g. 14014 - AAA Taxi (http://www.aaataxi.cz/en/) - they have prices on webpage and it is cheaper then airport taxi) or call your hotel, they will arrange it for you. Must sees in Prague etc.: you can find everything on Prague Information Service web (http://www.pis.cz/en) - map of the city, monuments, opening hours, you can hire a guide from them.
Outside Prague I recommend you City of Kutná hora (http://www.kutnahora.cz/index.php?lns=2) or Kalštejn Castle (http://www.hradkarlstejn.cz/) or Terezín Memorial (http://www.pamatnik-terezin.cz/showdoc.do?docid=164) or City of Olomouc (http://www.olomoucko.cz/eng/) or City of Český Krumlov (http://www.ckrumlov.cz/uk/i_index.htm), Telč (http://www.telc-etc.cz/telc/?lang=EN).
You can find a lot of useful information on myCzechRepublic.com (http://www.myczechrepublic.com/).

[sarahncraig]

Thank you SO MUCH, katkama! You are very helpful. Not too late at all. We don't leave until tomorrow. We're flying Czech Air. How is it as an airline? Any ideas on how we can get upgraded to business class for free? I'm not looking forward to coach since I'm pregnant.

Again, THANKS!!!

[katkama]

Sarahncraig, unfortunately I have no experiences with long flights with CSA, I use them only in Europe (it means max 4 hours in the plane). But they are pretty good. I have no idea how to upgrade to business, when I was pregnant, I asked for a seat near by emergency exit - there is a lot of space for your legs:)

If you are pregnant take really comfortable shoes with you - there are sidewalks with cobble-stones in old Prague, otherwise you will not feel your legs after one day of walking. And if you take a taxi, you can ask for "nonsmoking" car

And in the end here is a price map (http://www.aaa.radiotaxi.cz/en/index.php?id=22) for taxi, everytime it is better and cheaper to call taxiservice than take a taxi on the street.

Have a nice trip and here is something to get you into the right mood;)
http://www.pis.cz/data/photogalery/zimamostv.jpg

[sarahncraig]

katkama - I can't thank you enough. Thanks for the feedback and help. I can't wait!!! The snow is beautiful - wish we had more in New York City right now. I have two pair of very comfortable shoes that I'm bringing. Hopefully it won't be too hard on me since I'm used to walking a lot in the city. I'll only have a small carry-on suitcase and a purse - Craig and I pack light! I figured that would also help me out and not be too heavy.

What do you do in Prague? Are you Czech? If not, were you get there during the Iron Curtain? Just curious...

[katkama]

sarahncraig - yes I'm Czech, I was born in Prague and the most of my life I lived there (we moved out of the city 3 months ago). I was a child at the time of Iron Curtain (I was 11 during Velvet Revolution):) so I remeber something, but most I know from my parents.

[sarahncraig]

sarahncraig - yes I'm Czech, I was born in Prague and the most of my life I lived there (we moved out of the city 3 months ago). I was a child at the time of Iron Curtain (I was 11 during Velvet Revolution):) so I remeber something, but most I know from my parents.

hahahahaha Duh! I meant the Velvet Revolution. At least I didn't call it the Velvet Curtain. ;)

[katkama]

:) :) :) :) :) :) There is a small memorial to Velvet Revolution on Národní třída - you can stop there.

Let me know how did you like your stay in Prague after you come back (it is interesting to hear "the other side").

[sarahh]

My father may be planning a trip to Prague and I was hoping to get some reccomendations for places he could stay. He said he would like to stay somewhere close to the sights.

Mind you...my father is 75 years old. Is Prague a good place for an older man to visit?

[Leia]

sarahh - I think Prague would be a very good place for your dad to visit. There are lots of great performances which I am sure he would enjoy as well as lovely walks to take. I walked a lot in the city - so while I can't recommend a specific hotel, I would suggest staying somewhere near the Charles Bridge or Old Town Square, vs. Wencelslas Square.

[angelmia]

Oh i just came back from there! The weather is sooo nice right now so i can't imagine it can be that cold...anyway, my suggestion is: Opera. Go to the opera at Naredni trida. The theatre is absolutely gorgeous and is not expensive at all. It can go from 6 to 150 dollars; and even being at the cheapest seats you can have a fairly good view. The theatre has a little screen on the top of the stage with the translation in english of the play. Really neat. There's not a dress code. I saw people totally dressed up for the occasion (i would too if I could), you know, long dresses and tuxedos, but also you can see people in jeans and flip flops so don't worry about that. Going to the opera was one of the highlights of my trip, i did it in Budapest and in Prague. The theatres themselves worth it.

Good luck

[angelmia]

sarah, Prague is an excelent place to visit for an old man. I think the entire Europe is. All the sights can be seen on a walk (all the young people) or on a bus (i saw several packed!! with old folks). And they all have a great time, step down for the visit, step up for the next one and so on. Maybe go to concerts, theatres, sit in a coffee shop. He'll have a great time :D