There’s lots of reasons one might want to start exploring the world of vintage clothing–aside from the fact that it’s become quite fashionable among celebrities, it’s an easy way to create a unique look without spending a lot of money. However, the world of vintage can be intimidating–sifting through racks of shapeless, dusty garments in a thrift store; wondering what will fit correctly…even just facing thousands of listings on eBay! Where does one start, and how does one work these pieces into an existing modern wardrobe?Here’s a few tips to keep in mind when beginning to collect vintage clothing.
1) Start off by studying magazines and watching TV–and not just fashion magazines and style-related shows. Surprisingly, tabloids and “Extra” Hollywood-type shows can be most invaluable in gauging what appeals to you, fashionwise. Stars are generally right on trend, take style risks, and therefore often can provide ideas. Take note of what looks good to you (A loose, flowing top with a cinch belt? Ankle boots with short dresses? A lacy shirt?). Like the look but think it’s too much for you personally to wear? Make a note anyway–you can usually modify the look for non-red-carpet wear by toning it down with your current basics.
2) Next, examine your current wardrobe. Is there anything in your closet that might jibe with the ideas you have? Jeans go with everything–but could you possibly throw on that lacy shirt over your cropped khakis? Could you cinch that loose top with a belt currently in your drawer? Make sure you have a good repertoire of basics: Good black or gray trousers in both spring and fall weights, a couple pairs of jeans, great-fitting khakis, skirts in various neutral colors, army-green cargo pants, black and white t-shirts and turtleneck sweaters. All of these will provide building blocks for your vintage finds. The most important rule of vintage dressing stems from this: Never, never dress vintage head-to-toe!
3) Now, you are ready to start foraging. The best place to browse at leisure is eBay–save brick-and-mortar thrift-shopping until you’ve gotten a little more seasoned. Yes, there are tons and tons of listings. How to pair them down? First, find your way to the vintage/women’s clothing section in the listings menu. Then, start searching by term. Say you saw an embroidered peasant blouse that you thought was adorable in a magazine. Bingo, punch in “Peasant blouse” (or, just peasant) and you are on your way. Do you have certain designers you admire–such as Marc Jacobs, or Chloe? Try searching by those terms too. Many sellers will list their items as “very Marc Jacobs,” etc. if they have that particular designer’s feel to them. If a seller has a particularly interesting listing, make sure to check out his/her entire list of items. Take your time and let yourself drift around the listings. Often you will come to find a certain item, yet leave finding something amazing you just happened to stumble on.
4) Fit tips: Since vintage sizing is different from modern sizing, sellers always provide measurements, and most are very helpful if you have questions about sizing. You can contact the seller via eBay’s system and simply ask, “I am new to shopping vintage and could use some sizing help…I am a size 8 at the Gap, do you think this will fit me?” I have found sellers to be quite nice about helping in this area. Also remember: Tops and blouses are easiest to fit. Pants are difficult. Dresses and skirts can go either way–but are generally not very hard to alter.
5) Pay attention to fabric descriptions! You probably won’t enjoy the feel or look of a pure polyester blouse (and often it’s hard to tell fabric just by looking at a photo). If in doubt, ask the seller.
6) Buy only one or two items at a time when starting out. When you get your items, give yourself a quick breaking-in period to get used to them–vintage feels different, attracts a lot of attention because it looks different, and it may feel a little strange at first to wear it. Throw your new piece on with something very basic and try it out someplace fun and casual–dinner with friends, perhaps.
7) Vintage clothing usually needs to be cleaned before you can wear it. Many pieces can be washed on the gentle cycle and line-dried–I prefer this method as it really takes away any “musty” smell–but if in doubt, dry-clean.
If something doesn’t fit but you love, love, love it–don’t fret. Visit the tailor. The cost is not terribly steep to alter an item or two. Keep in mind, as well, that if you aren’t crazy about a specific element of a vintage piece, you can also alter that as well. A good example: Many ’70s dresses come in wonderful patterns and styles but are the full-floor length that was popular back then. Not really do-able today…but the tailor can shorten the dress for around $10, and voila, a gorgeous MODERN-looking gown!
Good luck and happy hunting!


